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June 29, 2005
Distraction
I’ve had a hard time writing anything interesting lately. At first, I thought it was because I was too busy running all the back-to-America errands that piled up over the last 6 months. Then I thought it was because I was too caged in this house to do any productive thinking. Tonight, I realized my real problem: cable television.
For the last year, I have had extremely limited access to television. In fact, unless I was at the O’Leary’s for a sports game or Fox and Anchor for on-screen karaoke, I have only watched television during random intervals (like Turkish CNN). But since I’ve been home, I’ve gotten sucked in all over again. As soon as I wake up I turn on coverage of Wimbledon. Then over lunch I peruse TLC’s The Baby Story. In the afternoon I switch over to Law and Order, with an occasional smattering of NYPD Blue or Judging Amy. In the evenings, I watch whatever is deemed appropriate for Ms. Janie.
The sad part is that—with the exception of Wimbledon—I don’t really care or enjoy the programs I watch. Instead, they are mostly time filler. And now that I’ve cleared off the desk and claimed it as a Janie-free zone, I have no more excuses: the TV has got to go. In fact, I had to turn it off midway through the first sentence of this entry because I just couldn’t think straight. And now I’ll never know if the gun manufacturer was convicted for negligence (or was it murder—I wasn’t watching very closely) when that guy killed those 15 girls in the park.
So now that I’ve turned off the television, what do I have to say? Hmm…
First off, I forgot what a delightful and wonderful friend Amy is. I met her for an after-work coffee today and we got all caught up. She always seems to be “in the know” about things I’ve just heard about—and there is no one better at listening to the most mundane details of my life with sincere interest. I’m so lucky to have her as a friend. I hope that we can spend more time together, now that I’m back in the area.
Second, I’m running out of space on my computer. I took several CD’s worth of stuff off the local drive this afternoon, but I’m still almost at my limit. Apparently, my music collection is the culprit, which leaves me with a small problem. I want to keep all my music on my hard drive, but I also need more space. Perhaps I should look into an external hard drive? I don’t really know anything about them, but they sound promising.
Third, I want to get my old book club up and running again. I miss being able to talk about the books I read with others, especially with the girls who used to participate. I’m sending out an invitation tonight.
Fourth, I want to start volunteering with a local organization. After my so-so experience with my last organization, I want to find a group where I can really contribute, but also a group that recognizes my abilities and really uses my contributions.
Fifth, I need to get over myself and apply for some other jobs. There are already two that I definitely need to follow-up with, and I’m sure there are others just lurking in my email inbox.
Sixth, I need some deep, introspective ideas to consider. Possible upcoming topics include:
• A written decision about my church membership.
• My newly discovered aversion to the idea of marriage.
• Why some friendships need to be kicked to the curb.
• Why some friendships need to be re-established.
Over It
Aside from some poison ivy on my feet, things are looking up. Not that anything has changed per se, but I have a better outlook on life. For one, several friends have called and that always cheers me up.
Other things to be happy about:
Same-Sex Marriage Advances In Canada
The House of Commons voted Tuesday to guarantee full marriage rights to same-sex couples, reaffirming Canada's sharp difference with the United States over the issue of gay rights and promising an alternative destination for American gay men and lesbians to be married.
The legislation, which opponents acknowledge will easily pass the Senate and which has the support of the government, will make Canada only the third country -- after Belgium and the Netherlands -- to give national recognition to gay marriages.
Starbucks Ice Cream Social (via Wish to See)
This afternoon, Starbucks Coffee Company will give away more than one million complimentary cups of Starbucks(R) Ice Cream in the first-ever Starbucks Ice Cream Social. The complimentary samples of Starbucks(R) Java Chip Ice Cream will be distributed to customers during the afternoon, while supplies last, on Wednesday, June 29, in more than 6,000 Starbucks locations across the United States. The ice cream is being sent to Starbucks stores via FedEx Express overnight delivery tonight and will arrive just in time for customers to celebrate summer and the early arrival of national ice cream month.
Nation’s Biggest Solar Bill Heads to Key Committee in California Legislature
Passing its first major milestone, the Million Solar Roofs Bill, SB 1, co-authored by Senators Kevin Murray (D-Los Angeles) and John Campbell (R-Orange County) and endorsed by Governor Schwarzenegger continues to advance through the California state legislature, promising to grow the California solar market, already the third largest in the world, by 30-fold. The popular solar power bill repeatedly received votes from both sides of the aisle in the state Senate demonstrating broad bi-partisan support for solar power.
The Million Solar Roofs bill, SB 1, would establish a large, long-term solar power program aiming to build a million solar homes and businesses over ten years, including half of all new homes by 2017. Such goals would grow California’s distributed solar market from an annual 30 MW to over 300 MW within ten years. Economic modeling by Environment California Research & Policy Center show this kind of sustained growth could be enough to cut the cost of installing solar panels, currently around $8-9/watt, in half by 2015.
Plans for today include: a Starbucks appointment with Amy, dropping my car off for a professional opinion, cleaning the desk-formerly-known-as-Janie's and making it my own. Who-hoo!
Posted by madchen at 11:50 AM | Comments (0)June 27, 2005
Pity Party
I’ve been home a full week, and the shine of America is wearing off.
Let me begin with my home life. I’m typing from the corner of the basement known as Janie’s desk (also referred to as the scrapbooking desk). There is crap everywhere, including a bunch of my own stuff. I’d like to clean up, but there is just no place to put things. “Strewn across the floor” seems to be the main organizing principle in the basement—actually, it seems to be judiciously applied to the rest of the house as well.
Joana (the daughter my mother never had) is staying in the guest room, which will become my room on July 3rd. In the meantime, Janie and I are having more quality time together than can possibly be good for either of us. And since she has more toys than any other 4-year old in existence (there is a kitchenette, a full size doll house, 4 dressers overflowing with stuffed animals, dress-up clothes, and even a set of maracas—just in her room), I am reduced to stacking my 5 pairs of clothes in one corner of the giant table (which needs to go to Goodwill IMMEDIATELY) that also houses the doll house and a 30-gallon trash bag of Janie’s old stuff—which somehow never makes it farther than the floor.
There is just no room for me at this house.
And the outside world isn’t treating me any better. My front right tire had a strange bulge in it, and facing the possibility that it might explode at any moment (or so my Dad would have me believe), I took it to Sears to get the front tires replaced. In the process of spending $250 (who knew new tires also required an alignment?), I also found out that I need new brakes—another $400. Add to that, my air conditioning is suddenly not working (although I am assured that it worked last week when my mom drove it to work), and my timing belt needs to be replaced (another $500). That means a minimum of $1000 in repairs for a car I don’t even drive that often. I’m beginning to realize why suburban Maryland needs better integrated public transportation.
On the job front, my luck is just as fickle. I finally called this morning to follow-up on the job I applied for back in April (there was an interview, then follow-up phone calls, then more follow-up emails, and at last count, the position was still open on May 30). It turns out that the Executive Director who was supposed to do the hiring has unexpectedly left the position. Of course, no one ever contacted me about it, and I had to resort to leaving a voicemail on her executive assistant’s voice mail. Not that I expect a call back—so far, the last 60,000 attempts to communicate have gone unanswered. Sigh. It makes me question the wisdom of applying for this job.
So that’s about it. There’s nothing else much to report. My mom and I have been going to the gym, and I am in desperate need for some new gym clothes. It’s horribly hot and humid here, and I am not equipped to deal with the heat. Unfortunately, a trip to the mall (combined with the tire replacement) demonstrated once again that I have NO money—at least, no money equal to gym clothes from Hechts—especially not after signing over my entire savings to the car repair people. Guess I’ll be on the elliptical machine tomorrow with hot, polyester pants.
June 24, 2005
Books I Read in Turkey
An Equal Music : A Novel
by Vikrma Seth
Amazon.com Review: The violinist hero of Vikram Seth's third novel would very much like to be hearing secret harmonies. Instead, living in London 10 years after a key disaster, Michael Holme is easily irritated by his beautiful young (and even French!) girlfriend and by his colleagues in the Maggiore Quartet. In short, he's fed up with playing second fiddle in life and art. Yet a chance encounter with Julia, the pianist he had loved and lost in Vienna, brings Michael sudden bliss. Her situation, however--and the secret that may end her career--threatens to undo the lovers.
An Equal Music is a fraction of the size of Seth's A Suitable Boy, but is still deliciously expansive. In under 400 pages, the author offers up exquisite complexities, personal and lyrical, while deftly fielding any fears that he's composed a Harlequin for highbrows. During one emotional crescendo, Michael tells Julia, "I don't know how I've lived without you all these years," only to realize, "how feeble and trite my words sound to me, as if they have been plucked out of some housewife fantasy." In addition to the pitch of its love story, one of the book's joys lies in Seth's creation of musical extremes. As the Maggiore rehearses, moving from sniping and impatience to perfection, the author expertly notates the joys of collaboration, trust, and creation. "It's the weirdest thing, a quartet," one member remarks. "I don't know what to compare it to. A marriage? a firm? a platoon under fire? a self-regarding, self-destructive priesthood? It has so many different tensions mixed in with its pleasures."
An Equal Music is a novel in which the length of Schubert's Trout Quintet matters deeply, the discovery of a little-known Beethoven opus is a miracle, and each instrument has its own being. Just as Michael can't hope to possess Julia, he cannot even dream of owning his beloved Tononi, the violin he has long had only on loan. And it goes without saying that Vikram Seth knows how to tell a tale, keeping us guessing about everything from what the Quartet's four-minute encore will be to what really occasioned Julia's departure from Michael's life. (Or was it in fact Michael who abandoned Julia?) As this love story ranges from London to Michael's birthplace in the north of England to Vienna to Venice, few readers will remain deaf to its appeals.
My Review: A very entertaining read, even if I skimmed most of the angonizingly detailed description of music. It made me wish I could listen to classical music while reading it.
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Property : A Novel
by Valerie Martin
Booklist Review: Set in Louisiana in 1828, Martin's latest novel depicts the psychologically charged relationship between a wealthy white woman and the slave she detests. Manon Gaudet is bored and dissatisfied with her stifling marriage to a man she loathes. She takes much of her resentment out on her slave, Sarah, who is her husband's unwilling mistress and the mother of his only two children. Manon hates the children, especially the eldest, Walter, who is allowed to run wild on their estate. Her husband (who is never given a name) tries to reach out to Manon, but she rejects his attempts with disdain and condescension. The claustrophobic estate only makes Manon resent her life more, and she is grateful when she is unable to conceive a child. When a group of runaway slaves descends upon Manon's home, their attack brings the simmering tensions between Manon and Sarah to a head, resulting in a dramatic confrontation that only serves to heighten Manon's obsession with subjugating Sarah. The book is taut and atmospheric and effectively chronicles an obsessive fixation.
My Review: It's hard to feel sympathy for the main character, but I appreciated the candor with which the author deals with the reality of slavery.
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My Name Is Red
by Orhan Pamuk
Library Journal Review: In 16th-century Istanbul, master miniaturist and illuminator of books Enishte Effendi is commissioned to illustrate a book celebrating the sultan. Soon he lies dead at the bottom of a well, and how he got there is the crux of this novel. A number of narrators give testimony to what they know about the circumstances surrounding the murder. The stories accumulate and become more detailed as the novel progresses, giving the reader not only a nontraditional murder mystery but insight into the mores and customs of the time. In addition, this is both an examination of the way figurative art is viewed within Islam and a love story that demonstrates the tricky mechanics of marriage laws. Award-winning Turkish author Pamuk (The White Castle) creatively casts the novel with colorful characters (including such entities as a tree and a gold coin) and provides a palpable sense of atmosphere of the Ottoman Empire that history and literary fans will appreciate.
My Review: Whew! This is a doozy of a book. At the end I had a much better appreciation of Ottoman art (which was helpful while traveling through Turkey), but I was overwhelmed by the detail, repetition, and slow pace of the main plot. Jess and Michelle hated it.
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Firefly Beach
by Luanne Rice
Publishers Weekly Review: Rice (Follow the Stars Home; Dream Country) brings her signature sensitivity to this beautifully textured summertime read. Famed artist Hugh Renwick is an adulterous alcoholic who is touched by genius. Long after his death, his wife and three daughters struggle with his oversized legacy and the damage left in his wake. Skye, the youngest, drinks to numb the pain of an abusive marriage and to squelch the memories of a past mistake on a hunting trip with her father, she accidentally shot a man. Meanwhile, the eldest sister, Caroline, hides her vulnerability behind a shell of brittle competence. The family's delicate balance shifts forever when treasure salvager Joe Connor arranges a dive in the waters near their home. Linked to the Renwicks by a tragedy that occurred when he was just a child, Joe helps Skye get sober, melts the ice in Caroline's heart and heals his own scars in the process. As always, Rice excels at evoking the strong but contradictory emotions that both bind and divide families. In her capable hands, what could have been a superficial glitz-and-glamour story of affluence, death and fame rings with truth and warmth. With its crisp New England ambiance and delicate prose, her latest is a lovely celebration of sisterhood, summer and survival.
My Review: A charming, easy-to-read book that narrowly shirks being a straight out romance (in a good way). Four of us read it within 36 hours, and all loved it.
Posted by madchen at 11:25 AM | Comments (0)Giving the Cat a Bath
I don't know what I was thinking. Having only been home for three days, and wasting perhaps my only "honeymoon period", I have completed a spate of errands.
I renewed my driver's licence, took my car in for an emission test (I passed, and even wheedled my way out of the $270 late fee), and picked up Joana from the airport (Janie shrieked "Joana, Joana, Joana" all the way there, then refused to utter a peep once Joana actually arrived). I also managed to catch up on all my email, clean Janie's room, and unpack a drawer's worth of clothes (the rest are jam-packed with Janie's/Jess's/Mom's/Dad's stuff--the nerve of them).
But none of that compared with this morning's feat of bravery: giving Madchen a bath.
In just under an hour, I hauled this 18-pound heap of fur into the shower, shampooed her twice, rinsed her 3 times (I had to haul her back into the shower after I realized that her neck was still soapy), brushed out at least 2 pounds of fur, and blow-dried her. All of course, while Janie was cooing "don't worry, Madchen" and "it's okay, Madchen" and "Aunt Jen, why is Madchen crying?" every two seconds--which did not go far in calming down a near-hysterical cat who is already wary of the 4 year old.
I finally gave up with Madchen mostly dry. She and Janie escaped out of the bathroom and I have tried to avoid them ever since.
Luckily I only attempt this insane task once a year.
Posted by madchen at 11:12 AM | Comments (0)June 22, 2005
Whew
I accomplished my two main goals for today, with several hours to spare:
1. I am now the proud owner of a brand new driver's license. Who-hoo!
2. I have updated my blog with all the posts from my trip to Turkey, and also loaded all the pictures. Check them out here.
And now, I'm going to eat dinner and watch TV. I love America.
Posted by madchen at 07:19 PM | Comments (1)New Beginnings
Home again, home again.
I was quite rudely awakened this morning by a 4-year old shrieking with delight at some nonsense. From then on, my first day back has been an exercise in normalcy.
I spent a large portion of the morning catching up on 6-months worth of television (ESPN, how I've missed you!), then got my act together and did laundry, unpacking, cleaning (how I've ended up cleaning Janie's room, I have no idea), and typing. Then, this afternoon, on a shopping run to the Navy Exchange to get some allergy medicine (I've sneezed about 45 times), I managed to snag a new pair of shoes and AN iPOD. Oh yeah, I'm making the most of the "welcome back" excitement. Then I spent the evening fixing the new family computer (my old computer) and getting my wireless internet set up.
And now, it's almost 3 a.m. (damn jet lag) and I'm nearly done downloading all my pictures from the trip. I'll upload the good ones to this site tomorrow, when I'll also upload all my notes from the trip. Stay tuned!
Incidentally, it turns out that I have to actually GO to the MVA to renew my driver's license, so until I can talk Jess into driving me Rockville and sitting through MVA hell, I will only be accessible by bike, bus, metro, or foot. Sigh.
Posted by madchen at 08:53 AM | Comments (2)June 20, 2005
Day 22: Istanbul to Copenhagen to London to D.C.
(Subtitle: Hurry up and wait.)
• 0500 – Alarm goes off. Go back to sleep while Jess finishes packing.
• 0530 – Alarm goes off again. Drag sorry ass out of bed.
• 0532 – Turn on hot water for shower.
• 0537 – Shower finally warms up.
• 0546 – Jump out of shower, throw on clothes, brush hair, pack pajamas in backpack.
• 0549 – Jess takes both backpacks and goes to the lobby to catch ride to airport.
• 0550 – Reset alarm. Get back in bed. Close eyes.
• 0551 – Knock on door. Get out of bed. Jess has left her flight itinerary on the dresser.
• 0552 – Jess leaves again. Get back into bed.
• 0730 – Alarm goes off. Hit snooze.
• 0734 – Alarm goes off. Hit snooze.
• 0737 – Alarm goes off. Hit snooze.
• 0741 – Alarm goes off. Get out of bed, straighten mussed hair, throw alarm clock in bag, and leave the room.
• 0742 – Sit in lobby, waiting for 8 a.m. transfer to airport.
• 0800 – Still waiting.
• 0811 – Shuttle van arrives. Feel very smug about lack of luggage.
• 0857 – Arrive at airport. Proceed to Turkish Airlines “no baggage” check-in line. Pleased to be the first in line.
• 0858 – Notice that no one is manning the check-in counter. Wonder about the intelligence of standing in a line that has no chance of moving.
• 0900 – Realize that the counter next to the “no baggage” line appears to be checking “no baggage” people in. Eagerly wait for next open opportunity.
• 0903 – Rude and ugly man walks directly past me, steps up to the check-in counter. While waiting for the airlines employee to finish with other customer, makes direct eye contact with me, then turns back to be served.
• 0907 – Rude and ugly man takes FOREVER. I consider attacking him with the intent to permanently maim, but decide violence will not speed travel out of Turkey.
• 0913 – Rude and ugly man finishes at the counter, AGAIN makes eye contact, and brushes by on his way to the gate.
• 0914 – Consider leaving the line to follow rude and ugly man to a quiet place and then kill him. Am distracted by the possibility of checking in, and discard plan.
• 0917 – Now checked in (with a minimum of hassle), traipse happily to gate.
• 0919 – Am suddenly confronted with hideous mass of humanity known as security checkpoint.
• 0920 – Choose a line to stand in, realizing that it will undoubtedly be the longest line, but unable to choose reasonable alternative.
• 0930 – Line seems to be progressing smoothly.
• 0940 – Line stops moving.
• 0945 – Amid grumbling of fellow travelers, discover that the security checkpoint line immediately to the rights has suddenly lost its security checkpoint personnel and it being diverted into OUR line. Line is now twice as long as before.
• 0955 – Passengers in other lines happily frolic in their normally-progressing lines, while we inch forward.
• 1013 – Am finally motioned to the counter. Total security check takes 15 seconds.
• 1014 – Walk towards Gate 303.
• 1017 – Finally arrive at Gate 303, notice that there is no plane, just a waiting area.
• 1025 – Scheduled departure time.
• 1036 – Ushered onto bus, which drives 200 meters to plane.
• 1037 – Am herded out of the bus, sideswiped by grown men dashing to the plane ladder. Wonder if there is a secret prize for getting on first.
• 1040 – Find my seat. Am relieved to notice the plane is practically empty. Throw murderous glances at the stupid ladder-dashers.
• 1047 – Plane finally takes off. Fall asleep immediately.
• (Lose one hour)
• 1115 – Eat satisfactory airplane food. Wonder if the food is prepared by the company recently chastised for unsanitary conditions and rotten food.
• 0100 – Arrive in Copenhagen, only 15 minutes late. Again, am shoved by stupid people running to passport control.
• 1315 – Walk through passport control, baggage claim, declaration station, and out into the main terminal.
• 1320 – Purposefully stride to the Hilton Hotel attached to the airport to retrieve luggage.
• 1330 – Helpful Hilton employee fetched the giant suitcases and loads them onto a trolley.
• 1345 – Meander back to the airport terminal, pleased with the trip so far.
• 1400 – Wait in line at the British Airways check-in counter, ready to trip anyone who attempts to cut in line.
• 1413 – Go through security. Stuffy businessman insists on putting on watch, dropping change in pocket, straightening jacket, and inspecting keys at the end of the baggage scan belt, effectively preventing rest of line from collecting scanned items and moving to the gate. Wonder if stuffy businessman is related to rude and ugly man in Istanbul.
• 1426 – Buy a sandwich. Am disappointed to see that sandwich counter will only accept Euro notes, as have plethora of Euro coins. Resignedly use visa card to purchase sandwich.
• 1432 – Sit in “wireless internet area” and turn on computer. Computer fails to recognize wireless internet availability. Decided to type up trip notes for later upload to blog.
• 1504 – Realize plane is leaving any second, rush to gate.
• 1507 – Sit at departure gate.
• 1628 – Board plane, with no explanation of delay.
• Lose one hour.
• 1750 – Arrive in London.
• 1817 – Sit in new waiting area, continue working on computer.
• 1904 – Computer dies from lack of battery power.
• 1907 – Wander around the airport, check email.
• 1940 – Board plane.
• 2010 – Wait patiently for plane to leave.
• 2035 – Plane finally leaves.
• 2100 – Watch Hitch and Ocean’s Twelve.
• Lose 5 hours.
• 2245 – Arrive in Washington, D.C.
• 2255 – Board “moving lounge”.
• 2301 – Get in customs line.
• 2314 – Go through customs.
• 2316 – Pick up luggage.
• 2318 – See Mom and Janie in the arrivals area.
• 2359 – Arrive home. At last.
June 19, 2005
Day 21: Canakkule to Istanbul
We spent most of the day on the bus, arriving back at the “AND” hotel in the late afternoon. Michelle, Jess, and I took the opportunity to do some last minute shopping and we finished the evening with a group dinner near the hotel.
Posted by madchen at 12:58 AM | Comments (0)June 18, 2005
Almost Home
I can't wait to come home. This trip has been fantastic--but there are too many things that I miss. For example:
- A hairdryer.
- Knowing about my (potential) new job.
- Skype.
- Finally being finished with my thesis.
- An American keyboard (damn these extra letters--ğüşıöç--and WHERE is the comma?)
- A proper shower.
- My own computer.
- Downloading the photos from my camera.
- Toilet paper in the bathroom (rather than bringing my own).
- Regular access to the internet.
We're going to Istanbul tomorrow morning and from there I'll fly out on Monday. If all goes well (insert mysteriously missing comma) I'll be back in Maryland by midnight on Monday night. I'm counting the minutes.
Beginning on Tuesday morning (again with the comma) I'll do the following:
- Renew my driver's license (which expired last month)
- Call about my job application.
- Sort out my finances (or lack thereof).
- Get a pedicure.
- Go buy an iPod.
Life will be so good!
Posted by madchen at 08:53 PM | Comments (1)Day 20: Canakkule
This was the most “touristy” day of the whole trip. We spent the morning touring Troy and the afternoon and evening at Gallipoli. Our tour guide, although 100% Turkish, resembled nothing other than a Viking. He is a professor of history at the local university and was a very enthusiastic leader. The tours themselves were interesting, but not spectacular. Very little of Troy is actually available to see, and there are only so many hours you can stare at scenery and imagine amphibious assaults. By the time we got back to the hotel at 8:30 p.m. I was exhausted.
Posted by madchen at 12:48 AM | Comments (0)June 17, 2005
Day 19: Selcuk to Canakkule
My clothes weren’t dry in the morning, so I packed them up and wore dirty clothes on the bus. On the upside, it was by far the nicest bus we’ve taken so far, although I wouldn’t exactly say the 8 hours flew by.
We arrived in Canakkule about 5 p.m. and immediately signed up for the Troy and Gallipoli tours. At 73 Turkish Lira, it will the most expensive day—I hope it’s worth it! Afterwards, Jess and I got a kebab to eat and went to the hotel room. I finished (finally!) reading “My Name is Red” and Jess watched a documentary on Gallipoli and the 1985 film with Mel Gibson. I fell asleep early in preparation for the 8:30 a.m. departure.
Posted by madchen at 12:44 AM | Comments (0)June 16, 2005
Day 18: Selcuk
Today most of the group went to tour Ephesus, which is just a few kilometers away. It was a scorching day and the price was quite expensive (plus I was feeling a little ill from last night’s dinner) so I skipped it (along with Jess and Katie) and joined the group for the afternoon excursion to Sirince, a charming little village.
In Sirince, in addition to sampling the famous fruit wines (the peach, melon, and apple were my favorite), I finally broke down and did some shopping. I got an amazing wrap that will go great over a black dress and an Ottoman era (late 1800s) necklace of silver and lapis. It’s definitely the most dramatic piece of jewelry I own—now I just have to find the guts to wear it out.
We got back from the village around 6 p.m. and Sally, Katie, Michelle, and I decided it was time for a visit to the hamam. We had heard stories about how amazing the hamams were, but also horror stories about the painful scrubbing. The one in Selcuk was “mixed”, which meant that in addition to men doing the scrubbing and massaging, there were also men participants in the room.
After a little self-doubt, we quickly shed our inhibitions and enjoyed ourselves. Whiel we were given little towels, we mostly paraded around the sauna room in just our bathing suit bottoms. The two guys (one scrubbing and one massaging) were huge (and just clad in little towels themselves) with big mustaches and commanding voices. Although we were topless, it was totally asexual (except for the very observant male onlooker)—we ultimately decided it was like being a little girls and getting a bath after playing in the mud. We came out glistening and clean and decided we must definitely visit again before we leave.
We ate dinner at Bella Hotel again and enjoyed an after-dinner nagila. We are catching an early morning bus to Canakkule tomorrow and I’m hoping that the clothes I washed tonight and hung on the line will be dry enough to wear by breakfast. Otherwise I’ll be spending 7 hours on the bus in old smelly clothes. Not like it hasn’t happened before, I suppose.
Posted by madchen at 12:41 AM | Comments (0)June 15, 2005
Day 17: Pamukkale to Selcuk
Skipped the “optional activities” of the calcium pools and Hieropolis ruins and instead slept in and had a leisurely brunch. We caught an early afternoon bus to Selcuk and checking into the Bira Pension. It was a delightful garden with a rood of vines through which only the strongest sunlight filters. It’s definitely the hottest place we’ve visited, and I’m sad I didn’t take the opportunity to do laundry.
We had dinner on the rooftop of the neighboring hotel (the one we were supposed to stay in that was full) with a great view of St. John’s Basilica (where Revelations was supposedly written). Michelle and I engaged in a little carpet shopping, but ultimately couldn’t make a bargain with the seller. He encouraged us to “think it over and see him in the morning” but I walked out satisfied that it wasn’t meant to be.
Posted by madchen at 12:29 AM | Comments (0)June 14, 2005
Day 16: Fethiye to Pamukkale
We didn’t leave Fethiye until 1 p.m., so nothing besides 4.5 hours on the bus is worth mentioning today. We are a the nicest hotel tonight, and it’s a shame we are only staying one night.
I’m getting anxious to be home and the idea of being settled, even temporarily, is very appealing.
Plans for July:
• Macrobiotic, vegan diet.
• Gym membership.
• Figure out job.
• Meet up with Laurel, Brandon, Alison, and Trish.
• Visit Roya in Toronto.
Bad Turkish music is playing in the background, I have a terrible cough (the remnant of my cold), and somewhere close by Sally and Katie are watching Harry Potter in Turkish.
Posted by madchen at 12:24 AM | Comments (0)June 13, 2005
Day 15: Fethiye
We got to sleep in this morning, and just met at 11 a.m. Some of the group hiked to an old abandoned Greek village, but Michelle and I opted to go straight to the beach. The “Blue Lagoon” at Olüdeniz is gorgeous and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.
Jess joined a few of the others and went paragliding around sunset. I briefly considered it, but decided that 85 Euros was too much to pay when I’ve already done skydiving.
We had a nice meal in town then took the bus home. By the time I crawled into bed, my ankle and heel, which I sliced open on some rocks at the beach, had finally stopped bleeding but still stung enough that it took me a long time to fall asleep. I swear there was monkey wailing outside, but Kevin insists it was just a crazy chicken.
Posted by madchen at 12:18 AM | Comments (0)June 12, 2005
Day 14: Kas to Fethiye
A quick buys ride to Fethiye (around crazy corners at 100 mph) allowed us enough time to see Seklikent Gorge in the afternoon. The walk was fun, although it aggravated Michelle’s twisted ankle (from falling down the stairs the night before). Afterwards we paid WAY too much money to float on inner tubes down the river. Very fun, but not much to write about.
Posted by madchen at 12:12 AM | Comments (0)June 11, 2005
Day 13: Kas
The day was beautiful but really windy. Apparently the rest of the group had a terrible time on the boat trip (drunken guides/captain, choppy waves, etc.) so Jess and I were glad to have stayed home. I mostly hung out at the rooms, but managed to have a great dinner in town. I think I went through a whole roll of tissue paper between the sneezing and the runny nose.
Posted by madchen at 12:06 AM | Comments (0)June 10, 2005
Day 12: Antalya to Kas
An uneventful 4-hour bus ride brought us to Kas this afternoon. We all made our way to the waterfront bar/hotels, where we lounged, had a snack, and even swam in the ocean—which was treacherous. There was no beach to speak of—just jagged rocks against which giant swells of waves crashed. We basically had to crawl down a ladder, then fling ourselves into the water, hoping that we wouldn’t be bashed into the rocks. Good times.
We had a nice evening of dinner and a little shopping. I finally found a hat, so my nose is now safe from the sun.
Jess and I decided not to go on the boat trip tomorrow. It’s an all day thing and I just can’t be bothered. I’ve caught Jess’s cold and would rather huddle in a beach chair with my book than have to be sociable.
June 09, 2005
Day 11: Antalya
Today is a “free” day, so Jess and I took the opportunity to sleep in a finish our books. We had lunch at a kebab place, after fighting our way through hoards of shopkeepers, all who assaulted us with friendly questions designed to make it too uncomfortable to pass by without buying something. Jess and I quickly got over our civility, ignoring the thrice-repeated “where are you from?” and practically screaming no! in response to “just a moment, please” and “do you have a minute?”
I am overwhelmed with the cheap goods stacked everywhere. The number of tourists here (particularly the Germans) is astounding—as evidenced by the price tags all in Euros. Jess is too sick and grumpy to be interested in any of the town’s attractions, and I’m too irritated by the sellers, so we’ve decided to spend the afternoon at the hotel.
I’ve been thinking a lot about going back to Maryland. It’s finally hitting me that I don’t have my condo to go back to—that I’ll be in my parents’ guest room for the foreseeable future. While I’ll be glad to be back in Bethesda, knowing that my independence has vanished and my privacy has been reduced to a small room with an oversized bed is depressing. And even that is not really the situation, since I’ll really be sharing Janie’s room for a couple weeks while Joana stays in the guest room.
I wish I still had my own place to come back to.
Posted by madchen at 11:59 PM | Comments (0)June 08, 2005
Day 10: Silifke to Antalya
Sitting on the bus—that describes the majority of the day. The 10-hour bus ride began at 9 a.m. and included the following highlights:
• Winding roads that often required one wheel of the 45 seat bus to dangle perilously over a sheer cliff—hundreds of meters above the sea.
• An overturned tomato truck that must have taken the hairpin turn a little too quickly.
• Several massive bruises on my rear end from slipping on the marble steps at a roadside restaurant and falling down the last 4—landing in a pool of water from the hosed used to wash the bus.
We arrived in Antalya and took taxis to the old town section where our hotel is. The White Garden Hotel is one of the nicest we’ve stayed in, with a delightful inner courtyard over which our room looks.
Jess rallied from her cold long enough to join us for dinner and a stroll. Back in the hotel, I read through most of a book I picked up in the lobby called “Property”—winner of the 2003 Orange Prize. Strange to be reading about early 1800 slavery in the American south as the Islamic call to prayers sounds over the city.
Posted by madchen at 11:50 PM | Comments (0)June 07, 2005
Day 9: Silifke
After my troubled night, I had quite a nice morning. It’s hard to believe that my teeth were chattering just 24 hours before. Here in Silifke it is quite hot—a whole 33°C today.
The group split up almost from the beginning, with some people going to a local village, and Jess, Sally, Katie, and I going directly to the gorgeous beach at Kizkalesi. We played the whole afternoon by the water, which was a deep blue, and practically in the shadow of the Maiden’s Castle, a 2nd century stone fortress right off the coast. We eventually rented a paddleboat and explored the ruins, which were totally unprotected—we walked right over crumbling mosaic tiles.
On our way back to shore we met up with the others and had another few minutes on the beach until almost sunset, when we caught a minibus back to Silifke.
After showers and new clothes (our laundry was done by Jess’s red underwear dyed my white shirt) we took off for dinner. I stuck to soda and bread, with just a couple bites of salad. After being sick again at the beach, I was taking no chances—especially since we have a 10-hour bus trip tomorrow.
Jess is getting a cold and has a weird sunburn. I’m still feeling a bit off, but have high hopes for a vomit-free night.
Posted by madchen at 11:36 PM | Comments (0)June 06, 2005
Day 8: Nemrut Dagi to Silifke
(0430) Wake up, throw on clothes, pack backpack.
(0445) Meet downstairs.
(0500) Take van up to Mt. Nemrut.
(0515) Marvel at stone statues and beautiful sunrise scenery.
(0520) Begin descent on other side of mountain.
(0545) Stop at tiny souvenir/café store for coffee and breakfast.
(0615) Take other van to bus stop.
(0800) Arrive at bus stop, look around town.
(0930) Get on bus.
(1430) Stop for lunch, eat mystery eggplant dish, rice, and ice cream.
(1630) Disembark bus.
(1645) Get on minibus.
(1840) Begin feeling queasy.
(1900) Arrive at Silifke, retrieve bags smelling of petrol.
(1902) Begin looking for places to inconspicuously vomit, mentally review foods eaten.
(1904) Decide eggplant is the culprit.
(1915) Arrive at hotel.
(1920) Collapse gingerly into bed after placing trash can within easy reach.
(1922) As Jess showers, wonder if I should have asked for a single room so as not to have to share a bathroom.
(2000) Jess leaves for dinner with group.
(2017) Misery truly begins.
(2120) Moaning and cursing God begins.
(2137) Bargaining with God begins.
(2204) Bargaining is not effective, revert to cursing and occasional sobbing.
(2245) Jess arrives back at room, expresses virtually no sympathy at impending death.
(2257) Consider committing ritual suicide, but decide against death considering recent blasphemy.
(2330) Misery continues.
(2346) Jess gives tips on how to make oneself throw up.
(2351) Attempt “finger down the throat, stare into the toilet, concentrate on misery” maneuver.
(2352) Maneuver succeeds.
(2355) Feel much better.
(0010) Feel worse again.
(0022) Repeat maneuver.
(0025) Feel better again.
(0036) Cautiously lay down and sleep fitfully through the night.
June 05, 2005
Day 7: Malatya to Nemrut Dagi
This morning we woke up at a leisurely 10 a.m. to the hustle and bustle of the city. We found time to eat a big breakfast and check the internet before meeting back at the hotel and catching our van to Nemrut Dagi.
The drive was steep and winding, and the Dramamine I took—while preventing me from actually vomiting my lovely breakfast—did not alleviate the queasy feeling. The scenery was amazing and yet monstrous, and I was happy to arrive at our hotel at 5 p.m.
Hotel Gunes is situated mid-way up the mountain with nothing for miles around. From it we walked up the rest of the way (taking about 45 minutes) to the summit. Climbing the steep switchbacks made me hot and sweaty, but the temperature (and wind) at the top quickly made my hands numb.
Our local guide Kemal (who is an unmitigated disaster) gave us a shoddy tour of the area—actually mumbling directly from a brochure that we could easily have read (and understood) better ourselves. After staying up there about an hour, we stumbled back down the mountain to where the bus was waiting to drive the short trip back to the hotel.
We were all literally freezing when we arrived back at the hotel, and I was the unlucky one who discovered there was no hot water or heat in the rooms. I took a quick “navy shower” then met the others for dinner in the room downstairs.
It’s not even 9 p.m. and I’m in bed, hoping to warm up enough to sleep. We’ll get up at 4:30 a.m. tomorrow to hike up to Nemrut Dagi again for sunrise. After that we’ll spend the whole rest of the day traveling to Silifke.
Since it’s so early and I have time, I’ll make a few observations here:
(Had to thaw my claw-like fingers and after ½ hour of teeth-chattering cold, I fell asleep without completing my thoughts.)
June 04, 2005
Day 6: Ortihisay to Malatya
Ahh, another day in the same clothes. Despite my fears, we were perfectly warm—with two blankets and a sleeping bag each. We were up at 7:30 a.m. for a fantastic breakfast. I’ve decided that my favorite thing is yogurt with raw honey, of which I eat copious amounts.
HEADLINE NEWS:
Jess Woofter Masters Squat Toilet, Turkish People Amazed
“It all just came together,” she says.
After breakfast, we drove back to Urgüp, where we had a bit of time to explore the Saturday market—which was amazing. Standing in the middle of the mayhem, surrounded by the lush fruit and vegetables, with barrels of spices and cheeses, I finally felt like I was in a foreign country.
From there we took a 6-hour bus ride to Malatya, the first Kurdish town (going east) in Turkey. I was shocked at what a city it was, with western stores (particularly for clothes), car dealerships (Ford has quite a presence here), and fast food joints. We had dinner at a local place and got to watch a major soccer game between Turkey and Greece (disappointingly, they tied 0-0). Our hotel room was a horrific mix of communist style concrete and shocking pink décor—rather like a snuff film. But it was warm and we got to sleep in, so we overlooked the bugs crawling out of the faucet, the glaring fluorescent lights, and the guy out the window yelling something like “Japanese, Japanese, Japanese, Japanese, Japanese, Jap!” every 10 seconds.
Posted by madchen at 11:27 PM | Comments (0)June 03, 2005
Day 5: Göreme to Ortihisay
Today we had a free morning in Göreme. I had seen enough rocks, churches, and frescos, so while Jess went with Steven and Michelle to the open air museum, I stayed at the hotel’s rooftop terrace (and cave den) and played with the two stray puppies that wandered in last night. In the afternoon I met up with Jess and Michelle for some shopping. Out bargaining efforts were not well received, and I walked away empty-handed.
That afternoon we hopped in yet another van and did a little sightseeing on our way to Ortihisay, where our home stay was located. We spent the evening wandering around the town (with the friendliest locals), having a homemade dinner of chickpeas and rice, and playing Old Maid with the kids.
Once again, I’m sleeping in my clothes—which I’ll be wearing tomorrow as well. Sigh.
June 02, 2005
Day 4: Cappadocia
6:30 p.m.: Today we toured Cappadocia, leaving early in the morning to first visit Derinkuyu—one of the underground cities. It was formed by the Hittites back in the 7th century B.C. but was expanded by the early Christians. It was quite amazing to see all the interconnected tunnels. From there we went to a carpet weaving factory in Mustafapasa, where we got to see women weaving and a demonstration of how they get silk from silkworms. Then we walked up the road to an old Greek house. After poking around a bit, we got back in the van and headed for Ürgüp, the swanky tourist town near Göreme. We had a quick kebab sandwich there, then hopped back in the van. In the afternoon we visited Caravanserai, a caravan stop from the middle ages and several scenic overlooks. We finished by trekking through cement-like mud to the “Valley of Love”, which really is just a bunch of rocks eroded into phallic symbols. Jess and I are now back in the room exhausted. My only pair of shoes is caked with mud, so I’m not sure how I’m going to get down for dinner.
11:45 p.m.: Back in our “cave-like” room after a nice dinner and a visit to a new internet café. I just discovered that the memory chip for the camera is the wrong size. We’ll have to get them burned to a CD, then wipe and reuse my existing chip. What a shame.
Posted by madchen at 11:23 PM | Comments (0)June 01, 2005
Day 3: Ankara to Göreme
4 p.m.: The overnight train ride was relatively smooth. Jess and I shared a compartment with Sally and Kate with 4 fold-down beds, complete with clean sheets and pillows. Unfortunately, the conductor only announced that we had arrived in Ankara after the train had stopped. We had to scramble to get off the train in time, and I was actually grateful that we had decided to sleep in our clothes.
10 p.m.: From the train we grabbed out packs and headed for the subway. Because we were a little disoriented (and it was raining) we ended up catching cabs to the bus station instead. After an encounter with a squat toilet, we had time to munch on bread rolls before catching our bus to Göreme. I slept most of the way (the scenery was uneventful, and no match for my Dramamine), waking up only long enough to catch the last 10 minutes of some movie where Chris Rock runs for President. All I can say is that the man who plays Chris Rock’s voice (dubbed into Turkish) did not do him justice.
The bus ride was about 5 ½ hours, and we were delighted to arrive in the heart of Cappadocia. We were whisked up to our hotel—the “Arif Hotel and Pension”—with real “cave-like” rooms. The rooms should be called “poorly plastered rooms with only vague similarities to caves” but the views from the terrace are spectacular.
Still in our clothes from the day before, we decided to forego a shower until the evening. So, smelling like a mixture of Istanbul, Ankara, and Göreme, we traipsed back down to the heart of the village and had a great meal of kebabs with Michelle and Steve. After that, a little shopping, a little internet (the Turkish keyboard puts the Swedish keyboard to shame in terms of extra letters and overall complexity), and a failed attempt to get money out of the ATM (although Jess didn’t have a problem), and we trekked back to our rooms. We partook of cold (Jess) and lukewarm (me) showers, then put on clean clothes. New women, went back down to meet everyone for dinner. Now we’re back in our room; Jess is sleeping soundly in the other bed, and I’m about ready to turn out the light. Hopefully tomorrow will be a sunny day and I can get some good pictures of the hot air balloons as they tour the valley.
I wish I could capture the magical feel of this place. People speak enough English so that we can communicate in stores, but there is still a very foreign feel to it. The homes built into the rock formations are amazing, and the constant sounds of a village—kids playing, dogs barking, roosters crowing, and of course the 5-times-daily call to prayer—make this an exciting place to visit.
Posted by madchen at 11:22 PM | Comments (0)
