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May 31, 2005
Day 2: Istanbul to Ankara
• Placed Visited: 3 (The Blue Mosque, Ayasophia, The Grand Bazaar)
• Naps taken: 2
• Number of times mistaken for Australian: 17
• Number of times mistaken for a New Zealander: 10,000
• Chicken kebabs eaten: 1
• Overnight trains from Istanbul to Ankara: 1
May 30, 2005
Day 1: Copenhagen to Istanbul
1:30 p.m.: I’m sitting on the plane, waiting to depart an already there is trouble. Both of the ATMs in the airport were out of order, and so I am stuck with only a plastic sandwich bag full of mismatched currency. I don’t have the money necessary to pay for my tourist visa (payable at customs in Istanbul). I also don’t have the 150 Euros payable to the trip leader that is due tonight. That’s not necessarily a problem, since I’m sure I can find an ATM in the city—the question is whether there will be an opportunity to get money BEFORE going through customs. If not, I might have to live at the airport for the next 3 weeks. I also realized that I forgot to pack my travel pillow in my backpack. It must be in one of the suitcases I left in Copenhagen.
11:41 p.m.: Aside from getting ripped off at the visa desk (they wanted US currency and I only had the Turkish Lira from the ATM) and having to wait in obscenely long lines to get through customs, the arrival in Istanbul was surprisingly smooth. I was irritated to discover that the currency exchanges won’t convert coins, and so I’m stuck with about $75 worth of Swedish, Latvian, Norwegian, Danish, Estonian, and Japanese currency. I had to reconvert my Turkish Lira (TRL) to Euros to pay the trip leader, but after that was quite pleased to easily catch a taxi to the And Hotel (as in “Restaurant AND Hotel”). The driver was crazy, preferring to drive in the middle of the two-lane highway and only commit to one lane or the other when passing a slower vehicle.
I made it to the hotel at 7 p.m. sharp, just in time to catch the group meeting. There are 7 of us in the tour group:
• Me and Jess
• Steve and Michelle – a father/daughter pair from the US
• Kate and Sally – sisters from Australia
• Trish – from Australia
And then there is Kevin, our fearless Australian leader. Everyone seems nice, and I think we will get along fine.
After the obligatory rehash of the itinerary and rules (no prostitution, please), we went around the corner for dinner and whirling dervish show. Frankly, I expected a more frantic whirling motion. ON the other hand, the kebab was great and the apricot juice was fantastic. Instead of dessert, we opted to share a nagila. I hadn’t smoked a nagila or hookah, if you prefer) since my grad school roommate Eran brought one from Israel—and it was just as great as I remembered.
I’m back in the hotel noe. Hess’s luggage didn’t arrive, and so we are a little worried. Right now, we have no soap, no towels, no detergents, and of course, Jess has only the clothes she was wearing on the flight over. Luckily, we’re in a hotel with towels and soap, but we’ll have to do a little shopping tomorrow.
We’re just a short walk from several famous sites. In the morning, we’ll do a walking tour, then go to the Grand Bazaar in the afternoon. As I lay here, preparing to go to bed, the sound of Arabic music is drifting in through the open window. I’d like to open the curtains, but Jess—who is sleeping naked (no pajamas) in the next bed—might not approve.
Posted by madchen at 11:18 PM | Comments (0)May 28, 2005
Hey da!
This will be my final entry from Sweden. Although I would like to write a long and heartfelt description of my last time downtown (ahh, Wayne's, I hardly knew ye) this afternoon, my last class (complete with thesis presentations--yawn), and my last game of Texas Hold 'Em with the Swedes next door (I won 105 SEK!!), I just don't have the time.
I would also like to write a little bit about my job search. To make a long story short, I am still waiting to hear about the job in Takoma Park, MD. After harassing them for a week straight, I finally discovered yesterday that the reason the executive director wasn't calling me back was that she was busy getting married this weekend. She'll be back in the office on Wednesday, and should get back to me sometime in the next week or so. The position is still open, and she received my "strategy proposal" for the position, but hasn't had time to look at it yet.
Instead, I have approximately 28 hours to finish packing all of my stuff for D.C., start packing my stuff for Turkey, clean up the kitchen, make a dish for the potluck tomorrow night, finish my laundry, and finish formatting my thesis.
Speaking of the thesis, can I reiterate (if I haven't already) HOW MUCH THE FORMATTING SUCKS? I'm only on page 30 of our 80+ page paper and I'm up to footnote 76. Actually, because the school has decided to go with some stupid "move all the footnotes to endnotes, but don't actually make them endnotes, but instead manually enter brackets around each number and call them references" format, I (and I assume many of my classmates) will be spending many an hour in front of the computer, alternately sobbing and screaming obscenities at the screen. I don't know why they don't just go with the traditional Chicago Manual of Style (which at least takes into consideration the wonderful advances in AUTOMATIC numbering)--but no, BTH has to do it a little differently. Sigh.
Tomorrow will be my last full day in Karlskrona. Sunday morning Roya and I will go to Copenhagen and spent the night there. Then Monday morning I'll hop on the plane to sunny Istanbul. Given that I was dying of the heat today (it reached 70 degrees for the first time this year), I am sure to spontaneously burst into flames when I step off the plane in Turkey.
Since we're heading for some of the rural regions of Turkey, I will be pretty much incommunicado until June 20, when I arrive back home in D.C. I'll be sure and post all my pictures on the blog, so check back in at the end of the month.
In the meantime, may I point you to the 287 posts from this past year? You can relive the fun of my first two weeks in Sweden (when everything that could go wrong did--including dead birds on the balcony, no furniture, etc.), my experience with the graduate program, my adventures in Amsterdam, Poland, Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia, Finland, Norway, Austria, Mexico, Belize, and Honduras--although not in that order, and various other delightful commentary.
And with that, I'm off to bed. There's a full day of formatting tomorrow. See you on the other side!
Posted by madchen at 02:51 AM | Comments (4)May 25, 2005
I Love My Thesis Partner
He is brilliant, funny, gorgeous (in a "Brad Pitt meets hockey player" sort of way), and an all-around fantastic person.
He has also found this site. Ronan, instead of perusing my innermost thoughts and feelings, shouldn't you be formatting references? :)
Posted by madchen at 07:24 PM | Comments (3)May 24, 2005
The Devil Among Us
Roya and I spent hours and hours cleaning the apartment in preparation for our exit inspection. At the last minute, Jess came home and helped out too. By this afternoon at 3 p.m. we were all exhausted, but the apartment had never looked nicer. We had been prepped by other students’ stories about the inspection process. Karlskronahem is supposedly VERY strict when it comes to cleanliness. Susan told us that the inspector actually swept for dust at the top of doorways.
We were determined not to get caught up in a costly dispute, so we had rallied all of our resources and were ready (if nervous) when the Kungsmarken caretaker arrived promptly to begin the inspection. Imagine our surprise when he strolled in, took a 20 second look at my room, and signed the paper acknowledging it was clean. He didn’t look at the windows I had so carefully cleaned (inside and out), nor the kitchen floor I had mopped three times (because we kept leaving footprints), nor the bathroom tiles I had so scrupulously scrubbed this morning. Nope—he just gave a genial wave of his hand and pronounced us “ok”.
Anyway, to get to the main part of my story…Part of the cleaning process involved placing items (my bike, the kitchen table, and the rugs) outside on the balcony to expose the floors for the aforementioned mopping). As I have mentioned before, the pigeons of Kungsmarksvägen are a rowdy bunch, and are particularly fond of perching on the balconies. Today I found myself shooing the birds away every 10 minutes, only to turn around and find that the stupid things had returned. Don’t they know how I loathe them? Don’t they know that I will always shoo them away—especially when they are threatening to poop all over our belongings? Don’t they know that pigeons die on our balcony?
I was momentarily distracted by the inspector, and then afterwards had to take my bike downtown to the bike shop, where it will be boxed up so I can mail it home on Thursday. (It was quite a nostalgic ride to the city center, knowing that it was the last time I would ride that particular path.) By the time I dropped off the bike, stopped at the bookstore to get a book for the trip to Turkey, ran to the grocery store, and took the bus back home, I had mostly forgotten about the pigeons. As I was putting away the groceries, Roya gently mentioned that she had figured out why the pigeons were so persistent today. Apparently, one of them had nested in the main carpet (which had been left lying in a heap on the balcony) and laid an egg.
I nearly had a heart attack. Thank goodness I only have to live here for 4 more days—I don’t think I could survive long-term in an apartment with a pigeon growing into it. That’s like asking a Baptist preacher to allow an abortionist to set up shop in the parking lot.
But, being the magnanimous person that I am (hold your sarcasm, please), I agreed to Roya’s pleas that we not immediately throw the nest over the side of the balcony. Moreover, I even committed to allowing the devil spawn to proceed breeding without interruption. I even took this picture so that the world can marvel at my generosity. See the evil glint in the mommy bird’s eye? I have only this to say to her:
You may have won this battle, but the war has only just begun.
May 23, 2005
Round-Up
More and more it seems like I've seen everything on the web. I'm not sure how this could have happened. I remember sitting in my dorm room the first month of college (October 1996) and marveling at the wonders of the internet. How on earth could I possibly read everything it had to offer? And yet, here I sit, with no real work to do (or at least, no work that seems appealing) and nothing to browse.
And yet, there have been some interesting finds lately:
Gastroporn - Courtesy of the Vegetarian Society (via Grist). I can't explain the amusement--just go watch the 30-second advertisement.
The Apollo Alliance - The Apollo Alliance is a broad coalition within the labor, environmental, business, urban, and faith communities in support of good jobs and energy independence. It has been endorsed by the AFL-CIO and 23 international labor unions as well as a majority of national environmental organizations. The Alliance is developing public education campaigns and communications strategies to link allies and build a new national constituency for a bold, broad based, and immediate program of public policy to achieve energy independence.
Freakonomics Blog - Which is more dangerous, a gun or a swimming pool? What do schoolteachers and sumo wrestlers have in common? Why do drug dealers still live with their moms? How much do parents really matter? What kind of impact did Roe v. Wade have on violent crime? These may not sound like typical questions for an economist to ask. But Steven D. Levitt is not a typical economist. He is a much-heralded young scholar who studies the riddles of everyday life-from cheating and crime to sports and child-rearing - and whose conclusions regularly turn the conventional wisdom on its head. He usually begins with a mountain of data and a simple, unasked question. Some of these questions concern life-and-death issues; others have an admittedly freakish quality. Thus the new field of study contained in this book: Freakonomics.
Things I Hate About My Thesis
While there are probably many things I hate about my thesis, I am tired and so will just cover the main ones:
1. Formatting. I don't know why every school has to do it a little differently but it SUCKS. I spent about 3 hours trying to get it all into a single document with the right margins (in metric, when my computer only has English standard), the right references (stupid footnotes vs. endnotes--particularly when the endnotes have to be manually entered in brackets at the end--so incredibly rediculous), the right spacing (20 pt. line after each Heading 1, 16 pt. line after each Heading 2, two 12 pt. lines between each Heading 2 and Heading 3, etc.), and the right captions for the tables and figures (chapter.number: description). If I ever wanted to write a stream of obscenties for the world to see, this would be the time.
2. E-meetings where the other person doesn't show up. I usually love e-meetings, as it allows me to sit in my pajamas and conduct business over Skype. It is difficult, however, to maintain my composure when my partner doesn't show up at the appointed 7 p.m. meeting. At 9 p.m. when he finally calls, he merely says (and I quote): "i was downtown this eve and stopped by the gym on the way home, big work out and suana, i really need it sorry." Grr. Doesn't he know that I hate when people are late?!?
3. Formatting. I know I mentioned this one before, but it is horrid enough to bear repeating. Moreover, the "model" document they provided us keeps crashing my computer. Perhpas it should tell us something when the model is a mess.
Posted by madchen at 01:58 AM | Comments (2)May 22, 2005
Pet Peeves
Things I Hate:
1. When people are late. I cannot think of a more accepted way to show people that their time is less valuable than yours. It's incredibly disrespectful, and yet people just shrug it off like "oops, I'm sorry I've wasted 20 minutes of your time that you can NEVER GET BACK."
2. When people try to hurry me up when I still have 5 minutes left. While I hate people who are late, I'll be damned if I'm going to get all flustered so that we can walk out the door two minutes early. If you say "we have to leave at 9 a.m." then, jeez, don't be hassling me at 8:55 a.m. Just so you know, I carefully plan my morning to take advantage of every single minute. At 9:01 a.m., the bitching may commence, but until then, GET OFF MY BACK. (Dad, this one is specifically for you...)
3. People who throw their cigarette butts on the ground. I must have missed the memo which said "hey, it's wrong to litter, and we'll charge your $500 every time we catch you, but your nasty little cancer sticks really liven up the front lawn!" I'm particularly irritated (to put it mildly) when people throw their butts out the car window. I want to walk up and throw it back in the window--except I'm afraid they will have a gun in their car and shoot me. Or sue me. Still, it would almost be worth it.
4. When I run out of batteries/diet coke/tape/peanut butter after 6 p.m. and all the stores are closed. It's like living in a developing country. What does a girl have to do to get a diet coke around here? (Apparently, planning ahead for those midnight caffeine cravings helps.)
Posted by madchen at 01:38 AM | Comments (1)Coming Along Nicely
My room is beginning to look a lot like it did 10 months ago, right after the furniture arrived, but before I had put up anything on the walls, bought any flowerpots, or unpacked my things. It shouldn't take me more than another 2 hours to complete the packing. And since I still have a week's worth of living to do, I think I'll put that off for the next 7 days...except for the cleaning I'll have to do before our planned inspection on Tuesday afternoon.
My thesis is also starting to take shape. Ronan and I managed to get through a lot of the revisions today, and by tomorrow evening, I think we will have something to send out for vetting by the interviewees. I'm really hoping that we can have our final draft turned in by next Friday, although I think Ronan has a mental model that includes another week of editing (since the final, FINAL deadline is June 6). I will do my best to quash that vision tomorrow night at our e-meeting--at which time I am supposed to have re-written our executive summary. Seeing that I have not yet begun that little project (instead having opted to play Texas Hold 'Em with the Swedes--in which I *won* a whole 5 SEK (about 75 cents) by coming in third place--and packing and watching part of a movie with Roya), will have to be my main pursuit tomorrow.
At least now that my room is mostly packed up, I will have less to distract me. Except for the aforementioned cleaning. I can confirm reports that the floor is revolting, and should not be walked on with bare feet. A broom and mop should remedy that problem, but until that time government officials are recommending at least socks or slippers--preferably both.
Have I mentioned how excited I am that David is now blogging? He picked it up like a natural, and even introduced me to a new concept of StoryCorps. While in some instances StoryCorps seems like the worst idea ever (the thought of old people talking and talking and talking about their lives as if re-lived in real time makes my skin crawl), the opportunity to capture the memories of my parents is very appealing. I'd like to interview my mom and dad, but am at a bit of a loss how to manage it from Sweden. That might be a project for my un-employed self once I get back to Maryland next month.
OH MY GOD. I will be in Maryland next month--28 days to be exact. Resume panic mode.
Posted by madchen at 01:23 AM | Comments (0)May 21, 2005
Disappointed To Be From Maryland
At my previous job, we often had a good-natured debate on the relative merits of Maryland and Virginia. I had always supported the Maryland side of the debate, but I might need to rethink my position.
Ehrlich Vetoes Bill Extending Rights to Gay Couples
Increase in Minimum Wage Among 24 Measures Rejected
Maryland Gov. Robert L. Ehrlich Jr. vetoed a bill yesterday that would have granted rights to gay partners who register with the state, concluding after weeks of intense deliberations that the legislation threatened "the sanctity of traditional marriage."
First of all, why on earth would allowing your life partner to be in the recovery room with you after major surgery undermine the "sanctity of traditional marriage"? Can you even explain to me what "the sanctity of traditional marriage" is?
The emotionally charged bill was among 24 that Ehrlich (R) rejected yesterday afternoon, including legislation to raise the state's minimum wage by $1, allow early voting in elections and heighten oversight of the state's troubled juvenile justice system. Another measure sought by gay rights activists that would have extended a property transfer tax exemption to domestic partners was also scuttled.
The minimum wage veto is another thing I'm baffled by, as there is a well-documented correlation between poverty and divorce. Governor Ehrlich, why not protect the "traditional sanctity of marriage" by getting families closer to a living wage?
Among the Bills Vetoed by Ehrlich
Gov. Robert L. Ehrlich Jr. (R) vetoed 24 bills yesterday, in addition to others rejected earlier this spring. Here are some of the measures and what they would have done:
· Senate Bill 796: Provide domestic partners certain medical and funeral rights afforded to married couples.
· House Bill 1298: Exempt domestic partners from real estate transfer and recordation taxes.
· HB 391: Increase the minimum wage for workers in the state from $5.15 to $6.15 an hour.
· HB 443: Allow Montgomery County police to use speed-monitoring cameras.
· SB 281: Create a commission to study Southern Maryland's transportation needs.
· HB 979: Create a legislative oversight committee to monitor the Department of Juvenile Services.
· HB 1342: Transfer the state's independent juvenile justice monitor office to the office of the attorney general.
· SB 849/HB 479: Begin a study of ways to independently verify ballot results from computerized voting machines.
· SB 287: Revise procedures for challenging a voter's identity and counting provisional ballots.
· SB 444: Reconstitute the State Elections Board.
· SB 478: Allow voters to cast ballots at the polls in advance of Election Day.
Reading this partial list makes me want to move to Virginia.
Posted by madchen at 02:48 PM | Comments (3)Procrastination
I saw Roya, Kevin, and Amity's thesis presentation today. They did a lovely job (although to be perfectly honest, I was somewhat bored, having heard many, MANY iterations of it over the past few weeks).
The rest of the afternoon included pizza at Galgamarken, a nap, loads and loads of laundry, some packing, Texas Hold 'Em with the Swedes in the next building (I had a shameful performance), and absolutely NO thesis work.
I now make a solemn promise to myself. I will get up at 10 a.m. tomorrow and work on my thesis until my 4 p.m. meeting with Ronan. I will only take breaks to shower, eat, and perhaps do a little more packing.
We are trying to schedule our inspection for Tuesday afternoon, so I anticipate a lot of cleaning over the next 4 days. I wish I had another two weeks, as there is just TOO much to be done, and not enough time to really enjoy my last few days in Karlskrona.
Posted by madchen at 12:37 AM | Comments (0)May 19, 2005
Birthday Reflections
Some things have changed a lot, others have remained the same. I wouldn't necessarily have been able to predict which things fell into which category, though, which keeps life interesting.
Last Year My Birthday: fell on a Tuesday.
This Year My Birthday: was on a Wednesday.
On May 18, 2004: I received an email notification about my acceptance into the inaugural class of Strategic Leadership towards Sustainability graduate program.
On May 18, 2005: I presented my thesis defense for the MSLTS program.
On May 18, 2004: I was frustrated by my job, and eagerly looking for the next big step.
On May 18, 2005: I was frustrated by my graduate program, and eagerly looking for the next big step.
On May 18, 2004: I spent the day with my amazing co-workers, who were delighted with my news about school.
On May 18, 2005: I spent the day with classmates, who were delighted with my thesis presentation.
On May 18, 2004: I spent the evening playing softball with co-workers.
On May 18, 2005: I spent the evening making dinner with my roommate, taking a nap, eating birthday cake with classmates, and finishing up the Alias marathon.
On May 18, 2004: I had my first phone conversation with Brandon, sparking a whirlwind relationship that I thought might be “the one”.
On May 18, 2005: I had no prospects for a date, let alone a relationship.
On May 18, 2004: I went to sleep in my own bed in my own condo.
On May 18, 2005: I went to sleep in a rented bed in an apartment I will be leaving in 10 days.
On May 18, 2004: I was filled with the possibilities of quitting my job, starting school again, and a new relationship.
On May 18, 2005: I am overwhelmed with the things that need to be done in the next 12 days, but have no idea of what my life will look like 6 weeks from now.
May 18, 2005
Philanthropy is Gratifying
Today’s Washington Post has an article about the Whitman-Walker Clinic. The first paragraph began:
The Whitman-Walker Clinic, the region's leading source of services for people with HIV/AIDS, is struggling with a financial crisis that has depleted much of its reserves and forced its board to begin considering program cutbacks. On Friday, for the first time in its three decades, the clinic was unable to meet payroll.
The article goes on to detail the Clinic’s financial woes, which include $700,000 in overdue reimbursements from the District Health Department and Prince George's County housing agency and a potential $2 million liability related to a mistake in billing for government contracts (due to a mistake—not fraud). The billing investigation is holding up further grants, yet the Clinic “has continued to provide social support and medical, legal and educational assistance at an unreimbursed cost of $480,000 a month.”
Although I’ve never gone to the Clinic and don’t know anyone who has, the Clinic’s impact is well known to me. The idea that employees are missing paychecks (and although some staff will be paid their salary balance on Friday, 16 top managers elected to delay their salary completely) was too much. I went to their website and made an online donation. I sent a little note, saying that while my tiny contribution (a pittance, really) wasn’t much, I hope they know how far their influence spreads (all the way to Sweden!).
So now, I can add The Whitman-Walker Clinic to my list of “groups I currently support”. Gosh, I feel so philanthropic—which brings me to my big thought of the day:
Philanthropy is an underestimated source of gratification.
It’s true that there is no selfless act. If you doubt the veracity of this statement, I refer you to the Season 5 Episode 4 of Friends, where Joey claims that good deeds make you feel good, and therefore are selfish. Phoebe spends the entire episode trying to prove him wrong ("I'm gonna find a selfless good dead. I'm gonna beat you, you evil genius" because, "I just gave birth to three children and I will not let them be raised in a world where Joey is right!") Yet even her good deed at the end is deemed selfish because even though she donates money to PBS, which she hates, she feels good about getting Joey on TV for collecting her donation.
But who cares if you feel good about doing good? I'm pretty sure that my donating to the Whitman-Walker Clinic makes me just as happy as a new skirt*—and for about the same cost. Yet, the Clinic needs the money MUCH more than I need a new skirt. Plus, by using my money for a good cause, I am doing a double service:
1. Whitman-Walker gets a little closer to paying their staff their well-deserved salaries.
2. I’m wreaking havoc (well, perhaps not havoc, but I’m at least doing my part) on the economic model that says buy, buy, buy…and then buy some more!
Plus, I get the added benefit of being smug. I love that feeling.
*Perhaps even happier, since apparently I have so many clothes that I can’t even keep track of them. What joy does a forgotten jacket bring?
Posted by madchen at 05:11 PM | Comments (1)Happy Birthday To Me!
In 9.5 hours I will be defending my thesis in front of a room of people. Thankfully, Ronan and I have a good grasp of our presentation, and even made two spunky new graphics to jazz it up. At precisely 11:15, I plan on leaving the classroom, proceeding downtown, getting completely drunk, and falling asleep mid-afternoon in the gutter.
Actually, I'll have lunch with some classmates, then go back and listen to 2 more presentations. While I'm sure that their topics will be riveting, there is actually something appealing about the idea of passing out in a Karlskrona alley. I've heard other students speak so highly of it, it would be a shame to miss out on the excitement.
Plus, I'll be wearing my suit (the ONE time I have the opportunity and I'll be damned if I brought it all the way to Sweden to have it hang in the closet for 10 months) and drunk people in formal business attire are the best--everyone agrees.
Additional fun story: I was supposed to meet Ronan at noon today to go over our presentation, but we discovered last night that we can't lock (or unlock) our front door from the outside. So someone has to be home until they fix it. Being the last one to wake up, I got stuck with the job. I had e-mail confirmation that someone was coming to fix it, but they never showed up. Thankfully, Roya got home in the afternoon and I was able to make my escape. I got home at 11 p.m. tonight to find out that the door is still messed up. I have no idea what we're going to do tomorrow, since all three of us have to be at school promptly at 9 a.m. when the presentations start. Guess we'll leave the door unlocked? If it weren't Sweden, that might actually be unsafe. At least if we get robbed, I'll still have my trusty suit!
Posted by madchen at 12:33 AM | Comments (3)May 17, 2005
Writing Prompt #3 - Ten Descriptions
Pick ten people you know and write a one-sentence description for each of them.
(See if you can identify them all!)
1. Her acerbic wit made you want to be around her, if only because she couldn't be talking behind your back while facing you across the table.
2. Her boundless energy—talking, bouncing, giggling, flouncing, shrieking—filled a room more than her four-year old stature would suggest.
3. Urbane, sleek, and witty—it was impossible not to believe he carefully considered every move that might impact his cultivated image.
4. When not pottering around the house doing minor repairs and muttering to himself, he could occasionally be found on the couch, the football game turned down to an undistinguished hum, gently snoring while the afternoon faded to evening.
5. Despite his tendency to deplore everything that makes life worth living and belabor the materialistic society we inhabit, he owned a surprising number of gadgets.
6. She was insecure for good reason—close inspection revealed a boring, judgmental woman with no taste in fashion.
7. She showed friendship in small ways that stayed with the recipient long after the gesture had passed.
8. Her unwavering commitment to admirable causes made her friends aspire to daily letter-writing campaigns, grueling volunteer duties, and unwise financial donations—all in a feeble attempt to match her fervor.
9. She was deep as a river and I didn't know how to swim.
10. He was hypocritical without thinking twice, picking his morals as needed and casting them off when they no longer supported his cause.
May 16, 2005
4 p.m. at Wayne's Coffee
One of my favorite places in Karlskrona is Wayne's Coffee. At Borgmästaregatan 20, the cafe sits on a main corner of town. It's a great place to "people watch". The town's only club "Kino" is directly across the street, so there is usually a flurry of tour busses, roadies, and performers strolling around--usually with a look on their faces that say "how did we end up in this podunk town?"
On the other side of the street is the bevy of clothing stores, so there is always a trail of teenagers giddy with their new purchased wandering the streets. The style here seems to be a revival of 80s punk with a Scandinavian flair. Because the weather hasn't warmed up, yet summer fashion is in the stores, there is a strange mix of miniskirts and thick quilted jackets, always complemented with a scarf wrapped tightly around the neck.
Inside Wayne's is another scene. First of all, the cafe is child-friendly, and there is usually a gaggle of young mothers (sporting the miniskirt-jacket combo) with their gigantic strollers (in Sweden, the closest thing to a Hummer is the 4-wheel strollers everyone pushes about) pushed into a corner. Between the dozen or so babies, these mothers (all looking about 20 years old) giggle and down coffee by the gallon. Decaf, I presume? Occasionally a father comes in, and it's hard to believe that these adolescent-looking boys could have procreated in such numbers. The official word is that Sweden has a dearth of babies, and to maintain adequate population levels the Swedish government has given scandalous benefits to new mothers. I have a feeling that the small-town mentality of Karlskrona, where it must seem that all your friends have given birth by the time they've hit 21, has something to do with the baby boom too.
As far away as humanly possible from the baby scene lurks the international students. I have never been to Wayne's without running into someone from my program. Wayne's is one of the only places with wireless internet access, and so it's a natural draw for the graduate students. In exchange for absurdly expensive fare, we are welcome to stay for hours--an offer we accept all too often.
The best time to be at Wayne's is on Saturday mornings, before the farmers market gets going a couple of blocks away. There is a calm that belies the coming storm, as every family in Karlskrona will put in an appearance for brunch. Good luck finding a seat if you arrive after 11 a.m. on a Saturday, and good luck being able to hear your companions over the dull roar of the crowd. Yet, if you manage to stick it out, the masses begin to slip away at 1 p.m. and by the early afternoon it seems that the rush for coffee was just a dream.
Right now, I'm sitting against the wall with one of the myriad silk pillows cushioning my head against the plum-colored wall. I'm supposed to be working on my thesis (Ronan is finishing up the PowerPoint presentation at the table next to mine), but I just can't seem to focus. I'd rather watch the people around me. To my immediate right (just past Ronan), there is a couple that I hope is a father and daughter. She can't be more than 15, at the very most, and OH MY GOD SHE JUST CARESSED HIS HEAD. I feel like I should call the police, but because I can't understand the language, I'm reluctant to make a fuss. I've alerted Ronan to the scandal, but he doesn't seem concerned.
Next to this couple is another pair--I'm guessing from Kino. They both speak English, and are dressed in too much black leather to belong here. She has orange hair and a nose ring, and he has a green t-shirt that is so snug I can make out the shape of his nipples--not that I was looking, of course. She seems unhappy with him, and he has the patient look of a much put-upon boyfriend.
To my left is a group of men with British accents, people I don't think I've ever seen before. I'm curious where they come from, and how they ended up in Karlskrona, but I won't interrupt their conversation. Instead, I'll sip my coffee and pretend to do some work.
I'm starting to feel the pressure (only 14 days until I leave this town forever) of finishing my thesis, revising the textbook, and packing everything. I managed to mail my box home today, for a mere 760 SEK (that's about $115), but I have a feeling that my trip to the post office will be the high point of productivity in my day. The weather is drizzly and the gray sky always makes me lethargic. And with the days creeping by with ominous regularity, I find myself more apt to dawdle over silly things that I want to remember than buckle down and produce silly reports.
Posted by madchen at 04:16 PM | Comments (1)Writing Prompt #2 - Jail Time
Write about someone you would like to see put in jail.
This one is hard, since there are so many people I would like to see put in jail--but since I don't have hours and hours to complete a full accounting, I will restrain myself to one person, Pat Robertson.
At the same time, prison sentences are a burden on the rest of society, so I would like to specify that Mr. Robertson does not deserve a country club jail. No, I'd prefer that he have a hole in the ground as a bathroom. I'm not advocating abuse, you understand, just skimping on the frills. From what I understand, he'd probably see it as a test from God, signifying that he is something of a modern-day Daniel.
Pat Robertson - At his official website you can "learn more about the man and his mission -- as a broadcaster, statesman, author, humanitarian, businessman and Christian." What you won't read is how routinely states that gays are worse than Nazis, worse than terrorists, and are the work of the devil--and how he speaks for God when he claims they will burn in hell forever. In addition, he's spoken about:
- Ending Apartheid in South Africa: (talking about apartheid South Africa) "I think 'one man, one vote,' just unrestricted democracy, would not be wise. There needs to be some kind of protection for the minority which the white people represent now, a minority, and they need and have a right to demand a protection of their rights."--Pat Robertson, "The 700 Club," 3/18/92
- Pro-Choice Lesbians: "I am absolutely persuaded one of the reasons so many lesbians are at the forefront of the pro-choice movement is because being a mother is the unique characteristic of womanhood, and these lesbians will never be mothers naturally, so they don't want anybody else to have that privilege either." -- Pat Robertson, The 700 Club television program, May 28, 1993
- Planned Parenthood: (talking about Planned Parenthood) "It is teaching kids to fornicate, teaching people to have adultery, every kind of bestiality, homosexuality, lesbianism-everything that the Bible condemns."--Pat Robertson, "The 700 Club," 4/9/91
- Homosexual Satanists ('cause, ya know, they are all over the place): "Many of those people involved with Adolph Hitler were Satanists, many of them were homosexuals--the two things seem to go together."--Pat Robertson, "The 700 Club," 1/21/93
- Support of Randall Terry, who said, "I want you to just let a wave of intolerance wash over you. I want you to let a wave of hatred wash over you. Yes, hate is good...Our goal is a Christian nation. We have a Biblical duty, we are called by God, to conquer this country. We don't want equal time. We don't want pluralism."--Randall Terry, Founder of Operation Rescue, The News-Sentinel, Fort Wayne, Indiana, 8-16-93
Actually, even jail is a little too good for this man. I'm thinking that some sort of Biblical plague might be more appropriate. Then he could blame it on the lesbian, pro-choice aethiests and die a vindicated man.
Posted by madchen at 01:34 AM | Comments (1)May 15, 2005
I Am Boring
Sadly, I have nothing even remotely exciting to report today. I had a thesis meeting with a grumpy thesis partner, did some thesis revisions and worked on our presentation for Wednesday, took a nap, and listened to my Cider House Rules audiobook. Now I'm about to watch some Alias with Roya.
And even more sadly I report that the Czech Republic won the world ice hockey championship today over Canada. It is a sad day indeed for our Canadian classmates, who have explained that hockey is the only thing Canada has going for it. I'm glad I decided to take a nap instead of going to O'leary's to watch the game.
Posted by madchen at 11:46 PM | Comments (0)Just Thought You Should Know...
...I kick ass.
We had such a lovely dinner tonight. Everyone outdid themselves with dishes made out of "got to get rid of" ingredients. We had a great discussion about sustainability (is it reasonable? is it achievable? is it desirable?) and Roya and I had a nice Alias session after everyone left.
It's now 3:15 a.m. and I've gotten in a good two hours of thesis work since the party ended. I'm meeting Ronan tomorrow (or today, I suppose) at noon to go over the edits we received. I hope he's ok with the revisions I did to the first couple chapters. I've moved on to the "results" section, which is a lot easier in some ways, and a lot harder in others. I hope we can make some headway on that at our meeting too.
And with that, I'm off to bed. If you want some more reading, may I suggest Kevin's blog? Tonight he had a nice entry on the ethics of sustainability.
Posted by madchen at 03:14 AM | Comments (0)May 14, 2005
Talk is Cheap, Cowboy.
Well, so much for radio silence--that lasted, what, about 15 minutes? I've hit a wall in the thesis work (surprise, surprise) and I thought I might finish up an entry I've been thinking about for a while.
Premise: Talk is cheap. When a person really stands for something, she will actively support a cause through financial, volunteer, or other contributions. Moreover, citizens have a responsibility to actively engage in causes that are meaningful to them. Otherwise, we're just freeloaders with no right to complain about any perceived injustice or flaws in the system.
So, it might tell me something about myself to list all the causes I currently support (or have supported in the past), and compare that with a list of groups I would like to suport in the future. Might that tell me where my heart lies, and where I am lacking in participation?
Groups I have supported in the past:
City at Peace ($)
American Film Institute* ($/membership)
WETA* ($/membership)
* will support again
Groups I currently support:
University of Oregon ($)
Virginia Tech ($)
Compassion International ($/sponsor)
Saratoga Foundation for Women (Volunteer)
Groups I would like to support in the future:
Human Rights Campaign
Amnesty International
Center for a New American Dream
National Public Radio
(Of course, this doesn't include my regular letter-writing campaigns to my local, state, and national government on all sorts of issues.)
Am I missing anything obvious?
Posted by madchen at 04:54 PM | Comments (5)Going Radio Silent
Last night was the party for all the students with May birthdays. It was fun--at least, as far as I can remember.
Now back at home, I am committed to finishing up this thesis. Our presentation is on Wednesday (also my birthday) and we plan on handing in our final draft on May 27--a mere 13 days from now.
So after another birthday potluck (this one is specifically for ME--whoo-hoo!) tonight, I will be going radio silent. That's right--no more parties, no more potlucks, no more blogging, no more email. Or at least, that's the plan. In all truth, blogging is such an excellent way to procrastinate that I will almost assuredly write again soon (and probably every day).
So now I'll put my sunglasses back on, remind my roommates to whisper, and proceed with my hangover-writing-editing process.
Posted by madchen at 04:17 PM | Comments (0)May 13, 2005
No Time!
I'm running out of time--there are just too many things to do and not enough time to do them and still get 10 hours of sleep a night. Spare me your pity.
I started off the day with a thesis meeting with our advisor. He basically told us to condense the first three chapters (60-ish pages) of our thesis draft into "5 to 8" pages of literature review. Not to mention rearranging most of the rest of the paper. Some of his points were very good (we have a lot of redundancy) and some of it was silly, but at least we have a better idea of what the committee will be looking for.
Afterwards, I ditched my thesis partner to go downtown with Roya. We had pizza at a new (to us) place across from Wayne's Coffee. Roya talked me into trying a "seafood" pizza, which we both regretted later. From dinner, we walked up to the movies and bought our tickets for Bride and Prejudice, a Bollywood adaptation of Jane Austen's novel.
The movie was a mix of lip-synched musical numbers and complicated dance routines. It was possibly my worst nightmare, and yet somehow I managed to really enjoy it. I just kept thinking how this would have been such an awesome movie to watch when I was about 10 years old. I just know I would have re-enacted the scenes later on in the privacy of my bedroom, much like I did with The Pirate Movie so many years ago.
We biked home, and I've spent the last 4 hours working frantically on my thesis. I'm in the middle of a breakthrough, but I just don't have the stamina to finish it tonight. So far, I've gone from 60 pages to 33--and I think I need to call it quits. Tomorrow, if I'm very good, I can get in a couple hours of work before going downtown to meet Archie. We're hosting a May Birthdays Party for the class, and there is much work to be done.
If this party is anything like the last party at Bredgatan, I will be in no shape to work on my thesis for the rest of the weekend.
4 a.m. Update: Now that I'm on a roll, I can't seem to shut down the computer and go to bed. I'm down to 22 pages, and counting...
Posted by madchen at 02:40 AM | Comments (0)May 12, 2005
Writing Prompt #1 - The Last Time You...
Writing Prompt: The last time you…
The last time you corrected me in public, I let it pass. Secretly I seethed, knowing that—once again—you believed you had something to teach me, that I had something valuable to learn from you. You knew that I would disagree with you. You knew that I was in no position to question you. You knew that you could play off your position as an authority figure and so cast doubt on my ideas—without ever providing substantive comments of your own. You knew that if you could just make me a believer, if I would just agree to see the light, all would be worthwhile. But what you didn't know is that I am so disgusted with your condescending attitude that every word that comes out of your mouth is automatically greeted with suspicion, with antipathy, with loathing.
This is disturbing, not only because this visceral reaction means that I have a vested interest in our relationship, but because I have clearly stepped beyond rational boundaries and am now floating in an emotional purgatory. While I began our interactions with critical thinking, I am now disposed towards a negative interpretation of everything you think, everything you say, everything you stand for. I now embody the very characteristic that I find so despicable in you—a moral superiority based on some misplaced notion that the other person "just doesn't get it".
I don't know how to crawl back to my original position of objectivity. I don't know how to greet your criticism with an open mind—to glean the useful bits and discard the trash. I don't know how to value the system you defend, even though—intellectually at least—I understand the promise it holds.
I do not want your answers, which you give when no question is asked. I do not want "learning" to mean accepting your perspective. And so even though I realize I have wandered far from the correct course of action, I will not ask your advice. I will not be greeted as a prodigal son who finally sees the light.
Posted by madchen at 01:26 AM | Comments (1)May 11, 2005
Thunderstorm
One second it was beautiful--blue skies and white puffy clouds. The next second, the clouds had turned menacing and had collected into a wall of rolling gray. I took this picture out my back window, right before throwing on a jacket and dashing out the front door. My hope was to make it to the corner store before the downpour.
The elevator door was just swinging shut when the electricity when out. I was incredibly fortunate not to have pushed the button, because I would have been stuck in that little hellhole of an elevator for the next 25 minutes. Instead, I was able to step out of the elevator back into the vestibule--which was also pitch black. Jess had heard my involuntary shriek when the lights went out, and opened the door to let me in (I was afraid I might fall down the steps while getting to the door).
I made it back to the balcony just in time for the skies to open up and hail to rain down on us. In a flash, the playground was a muddy swamp. Jess and I stood outside and marveled at the change in scenery.
And in a flash, it was over. Well, more like 20 minutes. And now, the sky is once again bright--although still a little cloudy.
Strange.
Posted by madchen at 01:42 PM | Comments (2)Books I Read in April-May 2005
The Last Report on the Miracles at Little No Horse: A Novel
by Louise Erdrich
Amazon.com Review: Over the course of 13 years and five novels, Louise Erdrich has staked out a richly imagined corner of North Dakota soil--her own Yoknapatawpha, where every character is connected to every other and nothing can be said to happen for the first time. The Last Report on the Miracles at Little No Horse is no exception. The report in question comes from Father Damien Modeste, who has served the Ojibwe through a century of famine, epidemics, murders, and feuds. But the good priest is not what he appears. The prologue ends with the curiously beautiful image of the old man slowly removing heavy robes, undergarments, and, at last, a bandage wound tightly around women's breasts: "small, withered, modest as folded flowers."
How--and why--could such a deception last so long? That's the first mystery. The second begins when Father Jude Miller (a name familiar to readers of The Beet Queen) arrives to investigate the life of Sister Leopolda (or Pauline Puyat, another familiar name). Was Leopolda a saint? Or its opposite, whatever that is? Miracles, after all, are a part of the reservation's everyday life; for every nun's stigmata there's a secular wonder like the death of Nanapush. Indeed, the chapter detailing this old trickster's demise is the kind of earthy, tragicomic fable Erdrich does to perfection, including as it does an extended trial by moose, death by flatulence, and not one but two lustful resurrections.
Erdrich's writing is at its best when she chronicles the bittersweet humor of reservation life. It's at its worst, sadly, when she cranks up the fog machine and goes for the violins. ("He had the odd sensation that petals drifted in the air between them, petals of a fragrant and papery citrus velvet," she tells us, telegraphing Father Jude's attraction to a woman.) But at least the book's sins are sins of ambition--this is a novelist who revisits the same territory because the capaciousness of her vision demands it. Readers may forgive Erdrich's vagueness about Father Damien's religious calling, but they will never forget her images, as lovely and surprising as figures glimpsed in a dream: the devil in the shape of a black dog, his paw in a bowl of soup; freshly planted pansies, nodding at the priests' feet "like the faces of spoiled babies"; a woman in a billowing white nightdress riding a grand piano through the "gray soup" of a flood. Moments like these are small miracles of their own.
My Review: I agree with the reviewer's praise of Erdrich's prose, which was remarkable for it's bizarre, yet believable, tangents. There was just so much in this book--almost a series of short stories--that I was sad not to have my book club to discuss the book with. It has also made me curious to read the other books by Louise Erdrich, as it seems that she has woven the same characters through several of her other works. I highly recommend to all.
Camping
Click on the photo thumbnail to view all the pictures and commentary from my latest camping adventure on Dragso Island.
I came back exhausted and sunburned. After a hazy thesis meeting, I went home, took a shower, and collapsed into bed. After an amazing night of sleep (complete with a warm room, adequate covers, and a toilet just feet away!!) I am now ready to tackle my list of tasks:
1. Avoid burdening the Swedish welfare state with a humanitarian crisis and clean up my room, which has rapidly spiraled into a disaster zone. Specific goals include: 1) finish boxing up the package to mail home, 2) packing at least ONE suitcase so that it is ready to go to Copenhagen, and 3) clearing enough floor space so that I can walk directly from the bed to the door without having to hurdle piles of junk.
2. Avoid a starch overdose and go grocery shopping. Right now, my food supply consists of basmati rice, couscous, egg noodles, and white beans. That's all. Well, to be honest, there is a small quantity of past-expiration date juice and yogurt in the refrigerator, but that will be thrown out on the way to the grocery store.
3. Avoid a stack of lawsuits and send out the "results" chapter of my thesis for vetting by the interviewees. I was supposed to do this last week, but my thesis partner has not seen fit to provide me with a MS Word version of our rough draft.
And if all goes well, these tasks (and more!) will be completed by dinner tonight and I will have time to watch an episode of Alias with Roya.
Posted by madchen at 12:01 PM | Comments (1)May 09, 2005
Stoopid
For months I belabored the point that I had no "spring" jacket--one that looked nicer than my windbreaker (which has seen some hard months since I purchased it last October). So when I went to Austria with Mandy, buying a new jacket was top on my priority list.
Fast forward to today, when I was packing for my overnight camping trip. As it still gets to freezing at night, I was rummaging in the front hallway, where we have a jumble of outdoor gear stashed by the door. I grabbed my green plaid mittens (which recently fell out of my pocket, but then were miraculously discovered on the bike ride home), my blue wool hat (bought in Lithuania to replace the other blue wool hat I lost on the bus), and my fleece vest (with no particulary story attached to it). As I grabbed the fleece vest, I saw it:
My spring coat.
Not the one I purchased in Graz, but the one I bought last August in a fit of post-break up spending. In fact, I chronicled that shopping spree in my very first blog entry. Ahh, nostalgia.
But still, it makes me very irritated that I spent good money on a new jacket, when I had a perfectly nice one hanging in the hallway the entire time. Harumph.
Anyway, I now have TWO spring outerwear garments to choose from. So, of course, I'll be wearing my ratty windbreaker for camping. It's supposed to rain, and I don't want to be biking back in a torrent without some protection.
On the other hand, this is a good opportunity to take some last pictures of Sweden. The camera is charged up and ready to go.
Posted by madchen at 03:58 PM | Comments (1)Packing Plans
Things are starting to come together, and none too soon. In a mere 21 days I will be leaving Karlskrona for good. I'll get myself to the Copenhagen Airport, fly to Turkey, meet Jess, spend 3 weeks there, then fly back home via Copenhagen and London. On the evening of June 20, I will be back in my parents' house in Maryland.
The real trick has been figuring out how to get all of my stuff from Karlskrona to Maryland. After beginning to pare down my belongings, I think I have it figured out:
1. One box will get mailed back to the United States before I leave. This box will be as light as possible, with clothing the main component.
2. One suitcase and my bike box will get stored at the Copenhagen Airport while I'm in Turkey. On my way back from Turkey, I'll quickly fetch the suitcases and have them loaded onto the flight home.
3. One suitcase and my backpack will go with me to Turkey. The suitcase will be stored at the airport during the 3-week tour, and Jess will take it back with her when she leaves Istanbul to go home.
This should keep the costs down as much as possible--and I should only end up paying for a) the suitcase storage at the airports, b) the cost of mailing the box home, and c) the excess baggage fee charged for the bike. Compared to the other options, this seems the most reasonable.
In the meantime, I just have to finish my thesis, get packed, move out of the apartment, and graduate. No sweat.
And to make the most of my time, tomorrow afternoon I will be camping with Kevin, Laura, and Roya. I brought my tent back at Christmas time and I'll be damned if I have to take it home without having ONCE used it. We'll be sticking close to home, just camping out on one of the islands in the archipelago--but at least I'll get to break in the sleeping bag!
Posted by madchen at 12:29 AM | Comments (1)May 08, 2005
Get Notified
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Posted by madchen at 05:14 AM | Comments (3)4:30 a.m.
Just click on this picture to be taken to the new photosite. You should also be able to access the photosite through the "Photos" section (on the right), which should be working at any moment. This new feature will significantly help with the uploading and organizing of all my pictures. And also give me plenty of excuses to sit in front of the computer for more hours each night.
As for me, it's nearly 5 a.m. and I'm still awake. I took a nice long nap this afternoon, getting up just in time to play on the computer for a bit (and upload all the pictures from Austria), take a shower, and get ready for a night on the town.
Although it might not be big news in the United States, tonight was the Canada v. Sweden hockey game--and everyone who was anyone was at O'Leary's, cheering on their team of choice. I'll let you guess who the whole bar was rooting for (all except for our little pocket in the corner).
Afterwards, a few of us went over to Buddha Bar and watched some salsa dancing. Wow--I wish I knew how to dance like that. Two of our instructors (both men) were there and they were amazing. If only more men knew how sexy it is to be able to dance, I think more of them might try it.
Roya and I took the 1:05 bus back to Kungsmarksvagen, where we somehow mustered the energy to watch several episodes of Alias. We are now mid-way through Season Three and I'm confident we can finish it off by the end of the month.
And now, it is clearly time for me to go to bed. Even if the chirping of birds, seemingly right outside my window, are loudly proclaiming the opposite sentiment.
Posted by madchen at 04:28 AM | Comments (1)May 07, 2005
The Road Ahead
Yesterday, in a whirlwind of activity, Ronan and I turned in our thesis draft. It is crap, but at least it's done for now. We're taking the weekend off, but will get back to work on Monday or Tuesday.
As a reward to myself, I went over to Mitch's place and played Texas Hold'Em with a bunch of people. The table of twelve was evenly mixed between North Americans and Swedes--with "our" side represented by me, Kevin, Laura, Mitch, and Roya (who was an onlooker). Mitch's roommate Svetlana won, but we adquitted ourselved admirably, although I would like to point out that I stayed in the game longer than Kevin, who had declared his sole goal in the game was to beat me. Silly boy.
Then, around midnight, I came back to the "office" and somehow got sucked into my blog. I've decided to add photoblog capabilities to this site, and it should be showing up in the next few days--along with a new look for the site.
By the time I got to bed, the sun was coming up. That statement is not nearly as impressive as had it been December in Sweden, when the sun didn't peek its shiny head over the horizon until nigh on 9 a.m. But now by 4 a.m. the sky is awash with pinks, melons, lavenders, and buttercups. Very pretty.
As a result, I slept in until almost 11 a.m. (what, not the middle of the afternoon, you say?) and here I am, right back at the computer. I have a little knot of panic in the middle of my chest at the though of no thesis work today. If I don't have a meaningless project to work on, WHO AM I?
Projects for today:
- AUGH! I can't even think of anything!
- Ok, deep breaths.
- Maybe a nap?
- Maybe some packing?
- Maybe reading up on Turkey?
Photo Credit: Mandy took this delightful picture from the floating island (I think) in Graz. Poor thing, her camera is is now broken, so I will have to find others to steal pictures from.
Posted by madchen at 11:19 AM | Comments (1)May 05, 2005
I want some chocolate milk!*
I'm feeling as whiny today as I look from this picture taken a couple weeks ago. I'm not sure why I have that look on my face—was it the water, was Jenny yelling at me, was I feeling burdened by my heavy (yet delightfully blue) bag? The whole will never know.
Let me list my grievances:
1. I have HAD IT with this whole thesis project. I'm tired of working on a project that is stupid, that no one will read, and that isn't even contributing to a degree that will help me get a job. The rough draft is due tomorrow and I just want to turn it in and leave the country, being pretty sure that our rough draft is good enough to skate by.
2. While Kungsmarksvagen is definintely the ghetto of Karlskrona, we don't qualify as "mafia controlled" like some other Swedish towns.
Some small and medium-sized towns in Sweden are effectively controlled by Mafia-style gangs, a new report from the National Criminal Investigation Department to European police organisation Europol.
Swedish television company SVT reports that threats and extortion have increased tenfold in the past decade, with certain places suffering particularly from the new trend.
Södertälje, near Stockholm, is one of the towns that police say has a large organised crime problem, with protection rackets and effectively controlling the town’s pubs and bars.
Jeez, if I have to live in a ghetto, I should at least get a taste of The Sopranos, which I'm missing in this crappy apartment.
3. I have TOO MUCH STUFF. There is no way I am going to be able to get everything back to the US without either a) paying $1000 dollars in shipping, b) hiring a car to get me to the airport and paying $500 in extra baggage fees, or c) meeting my fairy godmother who will magically transport my suitcases home. And my email messages to DHL, UPS, and FedEX have not been answered, despite their promises of a 1-day turnaround. Bastards.
* The title of today's entry dates back about 10 years to when my family was living in Japan. We were invited to Admiral Fujii's home in the mountains. It was an incredible place, built right in the middle of a ski slope (or rather, the ski slope was built around it). There were several families who went, all sleeping in tight quarters in the Japanese style. One family had a small boy of about six years, who was a spoiled brat. He had brought a whole range of noisy toys, the most loathsome being a tow truck that shrilled "hook 'em up, move 'em out" over and over and over. This small boy, Michael was his name, was physically incapable of saying anything directly. Instead of saying "I'd like to play outside, please" he would sidle up to his parents and plaintively bleat the request. In 3 longs days I never heard him use another tone of voice. As annoying as everyday 6-year olds can be, just think of the added horror of constant whininess. To make it even more obnoxious, his parents never reprimanded him—they just went along with it like poor Michael had no other choice.
At first it was amusing—like a game called "What Will Michael Whine About Next?" By the second night, however, I had enough. We were all pooling food, so there were no items that belonged to me, or to Matthew. He had been drinking little boxes of chocolate milk, and there was only one left. I was sitting at the table and saw what was coming. Pre-empting him, I said to no one in particular, "I think I'll have some chocolate milk" prompting him to almost scream in horror (but still in that whiny voice) "I want some chocolate milk!" Of course, his mother couldn't take away the chocolate milk that had so clearly been claimed by me, but she also had never denied Michael anything. It was a delightful fix, watching her waver back and forth.
I can't remember how it ended—I probably relented and let that little twit have the chocolate milk. But now whenever anyone in my family gets a little whiny, someone in the room is bound to cry out "I want some chocolate milk!" in that same Michael-like voice. Or perhaps just say, "Ok, Michael." It's enough to snap anyone out of a pity party.
Posted by madchen at 07:14 PM | Comments (3)Memories of Austria
I finally got around to editing my pictures from Austria with Mandy. With a thesis looming large, and a trip to Turkey in less than a month--plus the ordeal of moving out--I hadn't really taken the time to reflect back on my days in Vienna, Salzburg, and Graz.
Dear reader, the photojournal begins in Vienna, awash with tourists on a sunny and mild day. Mandy and I toured the main locales and enjoyed strolling through the parks.
A walk to the Parliment House revealed a bike festival, complete with a bike safety maze for kids, bike tricks, and the ubiquitous beer and wiener stand.
The next day we spent at Schonbrunn Palace, my favorite place in Europe. We took the standard palace tour, raced through the maze (Mandy won), trekked up to the Gloriette, and saw an apple strudel baking demonstration.
Salzburg was gray and rainy. The only good picture I took was from the window in our hostel room:
Graz was great--and what an impressive view from the Schloss!
Of course, there was plenty of time to meet new friends, watch some tango, and drink a beer.
May 04, 2005
We're Going to Turkey
If I had known that all I needed to do was cast a negative light on my family's vacation history via my blog, I would have done it long ago. As it is, Jess and I are booked on a 22 day trip through Turkey. We leave on May 30 and return on June 20 (I'll fly from Istanbul to Copenhangen, then quickly hop on my flight back to the U.S. that afternoon). It's so exciting!
Here's the itinerary.
Istanbul, beautiful mosques, Ottoman architecture, Cappadocia, Nemrut Dagi, Roman ruins, beaches, Gallipoli.
Explore the best of sun drenched Turkey. Prepare to be awed by the history and unique landscapes of this vast country. Discover character-filled old towns, swim in crystal clear waters, visit local markets, explore Roman ruins and visit the battlefields of Gallipoli, all at your own pace.
Days 1-2 Istanbul
Straddling two continents with a skyline of mosques and minarets, Istanbul is one of the world's most beautiful cities. Take to the streets and explore its many historical sites, tea gardens and hidden treasures.
Days 3-5 Cappadocia
Cappadocia is an intriguing world of bizarre landscapes where houses and churches are carved into rock. Experience underground cities and fairy chimneys as well as wonderful traditional Turkish hospitality at our family homestay.
Days 6-7 Nemrut Dagi
Atop Mount Nemrut the colossal stone heads of Nemrut Dagi adorn the temple and tomb of King Antiochus.
Days 8-9 Silifke
A Byzantine castle dominates the skyline of Silifke. This pleasant market town, relatively untouched by tourism, boasts a long history and some incredible legends.
Days 10-11 Antalya
An intriguing mix of city sophistication and old world charm makes Antalya a great place to explore. Stroll through the old city area, with its ancient harbour and graceful old houses, or relax in a chic sidewalk cafe.
Days 12-13 Kas
With its cobbled streets and white washed walls, Kas has a distinctively Mediterranean feel. Spend the day on an adventurous sea-kayaking trip or just relax with a drink down the harbour.
Days 14-15 Fethiye
Cruise the 12 islands off Fethiye or browse the extensive produce market in this lively port town. Soak up the sun at the famous Blue Lagoon or try trekking through stunning Saklikent Gorge.
Day 16 Pamukkale
Hot springs of old still flow over the moon-like terraces of Pamukkale.
Days 17-18 Selcuk
Once a great port city, Ephesus is now the best preserved example of an Ionion city in Turkey. From the base at nearby Selcuk, wander the marble paved streets for an insight into ancient times.
Days 19-20 Canakkale
Beautiful landscapes can't hide the region's history, from the legends of Troy to the tragedies at Gallipoli. This is an area of memories and memorials from heroic past eras.
Days 21-22 Istanbul
Back in Istanbul with time to discover more of this grand city. Visit the Topkapi Palace, opulent home of the Sultans, the Blue Mosque, sample some fresh fish from the Bosphorus or stroll through the world's largest covered bazaar.
May 02, 2005
Vacation Woes
When I decided to go to Sweden for a year, my family thought it would be fun to meet me abroad when I graduated and have a little vacation. My mom had been in Uppsala, Sweden during college, and this trip would be a perfect opportunity to go back and see it again. The plan called for my parents, my sister, and my niece to fly out for "graduation" during the first week in June and stay for 10 days. We weren't sure if we would stay in Stockholm, or try and see more of Sweden, but there was plenty of time to decide.
As the months passed, our plans never solidified. At Christmas, we briefly talked about it, but decided that we would have more information in the spring. No rush, right?
Well, in April, my dad decided that he wouldn't go. While I would like to say I was surprised that he would decide to opt out of a family vacation, I have to admit that I was expecting it. Without even thinking about it, I can rattle a half a dozen examples of last-minute trip cancellations (or discussed, but never-planned) due to his work schedule. The weird thing is, I don't even think he likes his job. Why choose to forego your hard-earned vacation time (and subsequently cancel the entire family's vacation) to stay and slave over a desk when you don't even feel rewarded by the work. I've often wondered this, but have never gotten a satisfactory response from my dad. I guess the world will never know.
Anyway, because my dad decided not to go, it suddenly didn't make sense for my mom to go either, since she would end up having to watch my niece while Jess and I played. Or else Jess would have to watch Janie while mom and I played. (Whether or not my mom is really disappointed about not getting to see Uppsala is unclear. Like always, she masks her personal feelings about these non-vacations--I suppose to make the best of the situation. Still if I was her, I would be beyond merely irritated.) So suddenly, there was NO vacation at all.
But Jess was still graduating from college, and so it was decided that she would come over to Europe and we would go on a vacation by ourselves. This plan seemed promising, except for the fact that Jess was completely absent from any planning activities. She said she "would be happy with anything". So I started a new hunt.
I had several criteria to meet:
1) I wanted an "exotic" vacation. Since I'm paying for this myself, I wanted to make the most of it. I could see myself going to Italy another time, but thought that this might be my only chance to see Morocco, Egypt, or Turkey.
2) I didn't want to just lie on the beach in an exotic place—I wanted to REALLY see it. Because I didn't feel capable of seeing an "exotic" place on my own (calculated risk, after all), I wanted to go with a tour group.
3) I had a very narrow window of time—ideally, I needed to be in Copenhagen, ready to go home on June 20. I could probably leave on May 27 at the earliest, but that still didn't leave much wiggle room.
So far, so good. I found a number of exciting trips at Responsible Travel. In particular, I was interested in their 23-day overland trip from Cairo to Istanbul. In fact, it looked awesome.
I forwarded this trip to Jess who, after some back-and-forth (the ONLY communication I had with her during this entire vacation-planning extravaganza) said that she wanted to keep the vacation to 2 weeks. This ruled out virtually all of the vacation options I had looked at so far. My logic was that if I was going to take the "vacation of a lifetime" (on my own dime, no less), I wanted to maximize the time spent in-country.
But I dutifully went back and did another search, looking for similar trips that met all of the criteria. Unfortunately, there weren't any available that 1) met the dates we had, 2) were in our price range, 3) had any availability, and 4) were something I was interested in.
At this point, my frustration was at a high point (or so I thought). My mom graciously forwarded some trips to Costa Rica, but I just couldn't muster the enthusiasm. I have spent all this time in Europe and it seems ridiculous to NOT see the Middle East (which is just a 3 hour plane ride away) while I'm here.
So then I decided to screw my sister (who, after all, can't be bothered to even respond to my email asking to set up a phone call about this debacle) and go by myself. The Cairo-Istanbul trip still had 2 seats available for a May 27 departure, and I was going to be on it!
All day Saturday I felt my certainty growing. I had always wanted to take a solo vacation (it's on the original list of 50 things to do before I die), and this would be the perfect opportunity. Despite the potential travel hazards (this trip goes through Egypt (mosque bombings), Syria (Iraqi insurgent clashes at the border), and Turkey (5-star hotel and embassy bombings), I had decided that *I* was not one to be scared off by random bombings. I had done my research, checking the State Department travel advisory website, and decided that this was a great opportunity to take a calculated risk.
I was all set to book the trip on Sunday when I looked at CNN and saw this article:
CAIRO, Egypt (CNN) -- Two veiled woman shot at a tourist bus, while a man blew himself up, in two attacks against tourists in Cairo that left the three assailants dead and seven people wounded.
In the first attack on Saturday afternoon, a suicide bomber blew himself up near the Egyptian museum in the central part of the capital, killing himself and wounding seven others.
Three Egyptians, two Israelis, a Swede and an Italian were hurt after the man jumped off an overpass and blew himself up with a nail-filled bomb at one of the most popular destinations in the capital.
Oh my, they are now specifically targeting tourists. And not just Israeli tourists, but ANY tourists. This puts somewhat of a damper on my plans, since it seems like a sign. Or something.
So now I'm back in a state of flux. Should I book the exciting adventure to the Middle East, or should I hang out here in Sweden until June 20? My friends Sara and Oskar (who is a Swede) are coming to Stockholm in June and I could tag along with their adventures for a week—that would at least give me the opportunity to see Stockholm. After all, I can't credibly go back to the United States having NOT seen the capital of the country.
Time is running out and a decision must be made soon.
Posted by madchen at 01:54 PM | Comments (3)May 01, 2005
The Mind is an Amazing Thing
As I was taking the bus home today (after going to Wayne's for lunch, meeting Mandy and exchanging pictures from Austria--like the one above, and getting groceries from Frukt Huset), I was deep in thought. My mind was delving into complicated issues of morality, ethics, and justice.
As I walked up to my apartment, I mused about the trajectory of human society, the possibility of redemption, and the need for a balance between shared norms and individual freedom.
As I distractedly put away the groceries, still mulling over these thoughts, I noticed I was humming a song under my breath. After a second, I realized it was the song "Whoomp There It Is".
Yes, party people, it's true. In the midst of my reflections, I was taking it back to the old school, 'cause I'm an old fool who's so cool.
Posted by madchen at 01:04 AM | Comments (0)
