« Jen and Lisa's Baltic Adventure - Day Ten | Main | Jen and Lisa's Baltic Adventure – Day Twelve »
March 25, 2005
Jen and Lisa's Baltic Adventure – Day Eleven
Today was by far the most gorgeous weather we've had on this trip. Spring was in the air and the partly-cloudy forecast was nowhere to be seen. Lisa and I were not the only ones to notice—I think that every single Helsinkian (Helsinkite?) was outside enjoying the fresh air.
The fact that it is Good Friday helped, as virtually everything is closed, so people spend the day with their families. And since there is nothing to do inside (stores and restaurants being shuttered), there isn't much option except to be outside. But it was great to bustle along with the local crowd as they enjoyed the melting snow and ensuing slush.
Lisa and I chose today for our major "explore Helsinki on foot" self-guided tour, which led us through the embassy district (note to self: all the attractive men in Finland are guards at the U.S. Embassy.) and down to the waterfront. Moms and dads were leading their kids to the park, where the kids were throwing themselves down the hill on their bright red sleds, knowing that it was probably the last day enough snow would be on the ground. In places where snow had already melted, kids in snowsuits joyously poked sticks into the muddy pools of glop, careful to keep their outfits clean.
Of course, with massive snow melting comes several inches of slush, so I was constantly darting about, trying to keep my toes dry (but being only partially successful). We joined the masses of people on a walk along the shoreline, and it was a beautiful sight. Families frolicked on the ice, with the kids creeping out as far as they dared to the water line before their parents called them back.
At one point, we stopped for a minute at Café Ursula, which had been recommended to us by the hostel receptionist as a great place to "people watch". Indeed, it seemed like Café Ursula was the place to be, and after some confused consultation, Lisa and I decided to forgo the tedious line for coffee and continue our walk.
Around and around we went—not actually intending to go in a circle, but we had to double back at one point because the road we thought would take us back to the main road actually ended at the sea. We saw some amazing apartment buildings (and a realtor window that demonstrated that we could never afford to live in this amazing city) on our walk up to the "Rock Church"—literally, a church built into a huge rock. Inside the church was spectacular, stones lines the entire circumference, with a panel of windows at the top, and crowned by a copper ceiling that defies explanation. At the church we saw a performance of "Sabbat Mater" with an organist, a soprano, and a mezzo-soprano. It was transfixing—they both sang like angels and the hour passed all too quickly.
From there, we walked back to the hostel (through the train station, which looks impressive from the outside, but is just a train station on the inside), stopping at the internet place next door to check email.
Our hostel, being an old, old building, does not have internet, so we resort to the place next door that offers internet access, faxes, and international telephone calls. (Kind of like a horrid, tiny, run-down Kinkos.) Apparently, its run by an African guy, who has all of his friends over every time we visit. They made a ton of noise, and distract him from more important things—like helping me get the USB port on my computer to work! Anyway, between the guy's friends and the people in the telephone booths yelling to be heard in other countries, it's not very conducive to writing long and meaningful email. So I'm up in my room tonight, recording the activities of the day and downloading my pictures. With any luck, we'll find a better place tomorrow (since the place next door is closed all weekend) where I can upload this entry.
Update: In a desperate bid for English-language television, Lisa and I watched what we believe was "The Last Temptation of Christ" before going to bed. Oh my, my, my. I have never seen so much naked Jesus before. It had an all-star cast including Barbara Hershey (Mary Magdalene), Harvey Keitel (Judas), William DeFoe (Jesus), and David Bowie (Pontius Pilate). Aside from the overall bad acting, I was especially amused by the way they decided to distinguish between the Jews and the Romans—the Jews talked with New York Bronx accents (Jesus, you talkin' to me?) and the Romans had formal British accents (Jesus, if you would be so kind as to die on the cross, sir). It was atrocious. But in the proper language, nonetheless, so we sat through the whole thing.
